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  1. Yesterday
  2. The first one sounds like it's not getting even power so the motor seems to be surging a bit. I can only assume it's related to the fault you've been having.
  3. Beko are one of the cheapest washing machines so they aren't likely to be excellent although I'm not aware of any particularly bad reputation regarding washing machine reliability. The best place to check for current thinking is Which? I have just updated my article on the subject which might be of interest - Which is the best washing machine?
  4. Good afternoon, Thanks a lot for your answer. I've dismounted the tacho again and I've noticed that the two metal parts weren't in contact anymore. Perhaps because I've pushed the tacho ring a little bit too deep in its emplacement. I've glued these two metal parts at the plastic part with a strong glue (Have you another solution?). I don't know if it will hold on a long time! The washermachine works again. \o/ But it does a strange sound when it's washing. It doesn't do this sound when it's spinning. I attach two sound's files, so you can hear it. I there something else wrong? Can I verify something else? Thanks in advance for your answer. Have a nice day Yvan Washing.wav Spinning.wav
  5. Last week
  6. Yes worn carbon brushes are number one suspect especially if they’ve never been replaced. It can be other things too but check them first. To be honest at 21 years it’s quite possible that the main armature in the motor is also worn. Read this article for further help there’s a link to carbon brush diagnostics in it too washing machine motor not running
  7. Hi. I've had my Classixx 1000 about 21 years. Yesterday it successfully washed, but today the motor is not working. Because I found some remnants of a paper facewipe in yesterdays wash, I wondered (at first) if I had a drainage problem, but now I know the fault is simply that the motor has failed to run at all. The wash program actually starts and ends, i.e. I do not get a fault indication. During the program I can hear clicking that appears to come from the main circuit board. I surmise I'm hearing the operation of a relay. The drum spins easily and the belt is good. So, I'm wondering if anyone can suggest what the fault is. Is it likely to be worn brushes, given the suddeness of the appearance of the fault? Thanks.
  8. I'm not sure about the Beko as some state it's 54cm deep but others says 59cm. I was more wondering about the general reliability regarding Beko. The John Lewis, Zanussi and Belling definitely fit though and the JL does give a 3 year guarantee as well.
  9. Hello. I've just updated my article on the subject here Which is the best washing machine to buy?
  10. That price difference is ridiculous. I can understand why you are looking into the other one. The problem is if it doesn't work, that's 60 Euros wasted. Sorry I can't be more help.
  11. thank you for the quick reply! Well the thing is, the part for the 9 kg costs 60 Euros and for the 8 kg 200 Euros so it's a big difference.. I am not prepared to pay 200 Euros, it's a bit too much for me
  12. Hi. I don't know, I've never tried not fitting the "correct" one. If you have one you can try it. I wouldn't expect a massive difference in requirements between the two models except possibly the amount of water used. But if you were thinking of buying one then I'd have to say the same as in my last answer, in that we don't know if they are interchangeable or not.
  13. Hello! Thank you very much for the answer another question, what would happen if I used a PCB of the same model but with a 9 kg capacity instead of the 8 kg capacity? do you have any idea? thank you!
  14. Hi, Many thanks for all your help. I obtained a 2nd hand control board and that has solved the problem!
  15. Hello mate, Newbie here. And also new using washing machine too. I am going to buy a new one. But don't have better idea which one would be best. Thank you!
  16. Hello. Are all the models you mention the right size? Washer dryers are usually really cramped for space inside so unlikely to be less than normal 60 cm depth. I personally don't think there's as much a difference in build quality between most washing machines these days. The John Lewis one may have a 3 year guarantee if they still give extended guarantees on their own brand.
  17. Sorry for the long post but I hope someone can help/advise! We need a slim depth washer dryer for our new place, needs to be slimmer than 57cm and actually be able to dry as we will be unable dry stuff outside etc. We don't have enough space for a separate tumble dryer so his is our only option really! Also don't want to spend a lot, probably £600 is our limit and even that's steep for us! We've been looking at Beko however should we stay away due to their rep? The model I'm looking at (WDR85P14N1W) is rated pretty highly by both Which and reviewers alike however I'm concerned about reliability??? Also looking at Zanussi and John Lewis 1614, Belling and maybe even LG? Hope someone can shed some light as I really don't want to pick a terrible one and regret it later! Thanks in advance!
  18. Hello Laura. The guide on what to do if softener (conditioner) compartment is left full of water is here Fabric Softener Compartment Full Of Water It also has a link at the bottom with advice about getting the soap dispenser drawer out although ideally you should have proper instructions in the instruction manual.
  19. I have a Indesit washing machine and the conditioner part in the drawer is full of water. I cannot seem to take the drawer out to drain it. What can i do to get rid of this water. Thanks,
  20. My theory would only work if it was a hot & cold fill washing machine. Of course you have to wonder if the temperature sensor is faulty. I would try asking at the UK Whitegoods forums as many of the engineers on their forums are ex ISE dealers and have a lot of experience with their machines.
  21. Earlier
  22. It's a cold fill and I saw the heating cycle skipped on both 30° C and 40° C washes, I haven't further tested the suspicion at 50 or 60° C yet, although that could supply the temperature that the machine "thinks" it's at - if I'm thinking correctly and if it's consistent. I ran the 95° C program yesterday to check that the heating element was actually working. The hottest temperature that I measured at the base of the tub near the sump was around 85° C. The cold supply definitely doesn't get anywhere close to 30° C. It's on the same supply line as a cold tap in the same room and I can measure the temperature there. Is it plausible that the thermistor has a lower than expected resistance at low temperature (NTC): falsely indicating a higher temperature and causing the washer to abort the wash cycle? Does the washer abort for a higher than expected temperature and does it do it by draining the water? I ran another wash on the 'cold' temperature setting for a.n.other wash program today, thinking that logically this wouldn't try to control the temperature and so wouldn't consider aborting the wash - and it went all the way through to the end without problem. My theory is only a theory and I'm guessing at the design to fit the facts
  23. If the washing machine motor is spinning too fast this is a fault between the tacho coil and the PCB. On modern washing machines it's usually caused when the tacho coil magnet has dropped off, is very loose, or is broken. If everything is okay with the tacho coil and the magnet, and you have continuity between the two tacho coil wires in the motor harness down to the PCB then the only suspect left is the PCB. However, they are too expensive to risk buying one in case for some reason it doesn't fix the fault.
  24. Thanks for the update. Your description of it sounding like bricks made me think of much heavier sounds than what I would expect loose drum paddles to produce. The funny thing as well is that I would have expected that with laundry in, the weight of the laundry combined with the centrifugal force pressing them against the paddles would have held them firmly in place, and conversely, with no laundry inside the paddles would be free to rattle. So strange one, but hopefully now fixed.
  25. Take something like a white cloth, preferably made of the same type of material that is being affected. Then drag it firmly all around the door seal between the lip of the drum and the gap. Try to rub it all the way around, and try to drag it on the lip of the outer drum too. See if you can get any marks that correlate to the marks you are having trouble with. Inside a washing machine this is the only place that clothes could get dragged against something. Otherwise they are totally contained within the inner drum. With some fabric such as cotton's, when they go on a fast spin the laundry does get pressed through the holes in the drum and in certain circumstances can pick up marks. However these marks will be small spots correlating with the holes in the drum. Apart from these two possibilities it is not possible for laundry to be physically marked by anything else.
  26. Hello, yes buying a new board would be risky. It may well be that they are the same, and I know you are trying to get confirmation but the truth is I do not know. Manufacturers do all sorts of strange things including using the same PCBs on different models but with certain links cut to produce different spin speeds. If one does look the same and has exactly the same connections it may well work but I would not put it past manufacturers to have designed them so that they will not work. If they are the same part in different washing machine models then they would sell the same part for all of these models. They may well have a different control board but if the main PCB is the same then the part number should be the same for them all. If this is not the case then clearly they are not exactly the same, or they are the same but the manufacturers do not want people to buy the one single part. Therefore it is a gamble to buy one and hope that it will work. It may well be that some of the connections are different. That is, they may all have exactly the same connections but not necessarily all of the contacts that these connections fit to are exactly the same. It may well be that there are some subtle internal differences. At the end of the day if the manufacturer has different part numbers for these different models but the PCB appears to be the same then it's too much of a gamble to buy one and hope that it works even if there is a possibility it might.
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