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  1. Yesterday
  2. I can’t engage twin dos as each time I try I get the message replace cartridge 2. However that cartridge is full. Have tried reinserting several times, turned machine off and on , all with no luck. Tried to run maintenance programme but get same problem when told to insert cartridge into compartment 2 - it doesn’t recognise that the cartridge is inserted. any ideas gratefully received.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi, I have the same issue with my Samsung Eco Bubble. I’ve noticed it’s worn through on a couple of places around the drum, I will get a replacement seal. Would I also be ok to use mine until it arrives? Have I understood right; that if I spin the drum by hand it should be smooth but also that it’s normal to be able to lift the drum slightly. I can’t understand why the rubber has worn away on a 3/4 year old machine and I had my previous one for 15 years and I never had an issue like this. (Although it was a different brand). I am convinced something is not right with the drum if it’s rubbing the seal and it shouldn’t move as much and my husband is sure it’s fine. Any other ideas? I do notice it’s not on every load and thought perhaps it’s the weight of the washing not being evenly disturbed when spinning. Would this be enough to cause this level of damage?
  5. Wow that’s the briefest video ever Too short to get an idea. To troubleshoot something like that you need to take off the belt to work out if the noise is caused by the motor, the belt or the drum. Also make sure the plastic drum pulley isn’t loose on the drum shaft.
  6. Furthermore... When turning the drum direct from inside the drum ie. through the open door...I can feel a slight "judder" in the drum as if it moves slightly off its course just as that knocking sound occurs...it's barely noticeable but I can definitely feel it.
  7. Have recorded a very brief video which hopeully gives an idea of the sound made when the drum is turned anti-clockwise by hand... The sound heard is consistent and occurs when the drum hits a particular position when spun. Thanks once again for any help. VID_20200522_144113_01_01.mov
  8. Thanks or youe response. I've messed around with the photos and now got them to attach. Having looked in the back of my machine again today, I found another of these "spindles" meaning I suspect it is something to do with packing.
  9. The part could be from the transit packaging and not needed. What size are the photos?
  10. I agree. That sounds ridiculous. Of course they know they can tell from the serial number. Go to a spare parts Site such as advertised on this site and put in your model number to try to find them. Having said that, replacing drum bearings is a very big job with several possible complications and the parts are expensive. I would advise against trying to fit them especially on an older machine.
  11. Hi all! I'd be grateful for your help... A couple of weeks ago, I was using my Indesit WIXE127 (UK) (TEV) which I've had for perhaps 9 years from new without any issues. Just as the wash was finishing its final spin, it began making a loud, rapid knocking sound and what appeared to be smoke came from the machine! Believing the machine to be knackered, I waited for the smoke to clear and had a poke around. I started by unscrewing and removing the back; there was nothing obvious. Nothing appeared to have caught fire. What I did find however was the plastic part lying loose on the base of the machine. As I looked through the door, I could see that the seal had somehow become caught between the drum and whatever surrounds the drum (excuse my lack of technical terminology!) wedging the drum and preventing it from spinning. By removing the seal, the drum came free again. A few months ago, I did use a mould cleaner on the door and there did appear to be some perishing of the seal around where it became trapped by the drum. So... My working hypothesis was this: The seal had perished possibly due to the mould cleaner and part of it had become wedged by the drum. When the drum attempted to spin, the friction caused the rubber seal to smoke. There were signs of charring on the seal. I replaced the seal today and gave the machine a go. It's 90% fine in that it washed fine, the drum span and nothing smoked. What I did hear however was a knocking sound when the drum is turning anticlockwise. It's absolutely fine when turning clockwise. When turning by hand, the same; no noise clockwise but knocking anti-clockwise. Given the symtpoms described: 1) What could be the issue? My guess is something to do with a bearing or gear? But this an uneducated guess and any ideas would be appreciated... 2) What is the plastic part I found in the base of the washing machine? I have tried to upload pics but for some reason the forum is saying the files are too large even though they're well undersize... I'd describe it as appearing like a small cotton reel around 40mm in length, one end is slightly flanged. It appers to be made out of plastic/nylon with a hole going right through as if a shaft is desiged to pass through it. It's an off white colour. 3) Could this part lying loose be part of the problem? Many thanks in advance for any guidance any of you kind people can give... MW
  12. I have a Hotpoint Model WMA9 - Serial Number 07101058 (an older machine given to me). Just lately it has been a bit of a noise and when turning the drum by hand it's making a bit of a grinding noise. I know the bearings on the drum are going and made enquiries today at Hotpoint as to what bearings I need. The reply I got over the phone was that it could either be 30 OR 35mm bearings and would need to take them off to check, and would I want an engineer to come out? No thank you was the reply! So they genuinely can't tell me or won't unless I buy from them? Does anyone know which size my machine would need - many thanks.
  13. Hi Andy i saw this article Regarding the pcb failure, when you do replace pcb you have to buy the programmer on top of that and it is not worth it, as the pcb will Be around £100 and the pcb reader will be around £150 and for myself diy it is not worth it. i might as buy another Hotpoint washing machine. Thanks for your reply.
  14. It could be yes, but PCBs are not recommended to replace as they are often misdiagnosed and they cost a lot, with no return option.
  15. Hi My mums washing is on the blink, my sister in law told me the water is not draining,so I checked the standpipe and all clear, I then checked the Grey outlet pipe and removed all water and it looks clear. I then checked the filter at the front and just found few coins and little bit of dust build , which I cleaned. i removed the flexible rubber pipe near the pump and this is all looks clean and No blockage. I have check the belt at the back and it looks all good and has good tension and i spins it around. When I turn the drum it has good resistance. i have checked the Carbon bushes and they looked ok, as It had some life in it. We did a fast wash test on empty load and the washing machine filled the water and the drums did short rotation clockwise and counter clockwise and then stops for 5 min and does the same again. Water drained out ,as I checked the drain pipe out is and the water was draining out, but it would not spin and the indicator where it usually indicates,wash, rinse, spin and end this does not light, it just stays in the wash and the door lock remains locked and the light indicator after 30min and the time stays 0:01 and the machine does not end and you can not stop it unless power off hold presses for 10-20 seconds. https://imgur.com/a/ZJu00Di Please see the link if you want to see the images. 2nd Quote https://imgur.com/a/WM9JhhZ Please see above the link for the images, I have checked the element and I get reading 31.4 on multi meter 200Ohms settings and the probe was put on the Live and Neutral terminal ,by pulling out the connector when checking the ohms. I then took the motor out and checked the carbon brushes and it had about 25%-30% left on it , but this still should be ok to work for the motor I think, but I am not sure on this if I am correct or not. i then checked with multimeter to check the motor and 1st two white wires I get the reading of 68.0 To 68.80 Ohms I think this is the sensor on the motor. These are the 2 white wires. carbon brushes 3.2ohms reading. Black and Grey wire. motor field winding 2.1ohms reading. Brown and red wire. i did not check the pressure switch yet. going from the above the Heating element and motor looks fine from the reading. could it be Pcb Module ? i would appreciated your advice.
  16. I get dE error code on the display of my samsung washing machine (WD906U4SAGD) which is a door error code. I thought the door lock mechanism wasnt switching as it should so I bought and fitted a replacement. The dE error code is still there so my next step was to measure the voltage going to the door lock, I believe it should be 230V when switching but I only get 160V on the plug. Can anyone confirm what voltage I should be getting to switch the door lock? And does anyone have an wiring diagram for this washing machine?
  17. Thank you again to bob12241 as I have today replaced the diode D7 all okay now. Another one to add to the list 18 Months old. Thanks again Rob
  18. Weird issue with a 2 year old Hoover Dynamix washer. Basically it runs through wash cycles fine but won’t fast spin- unless its tilted back slightly then put back level at which point in works perfectly for a couple of full cycles? As the machine won’t enter a fast spin until it’s drained the machine clearly thinks it’s still pumping water out and tilting the machine makes the machine realise it’s drained. Machine is pumping out fine, drain clear of obstruction filter ok and impeller at back of filter spinning freely. Any thoughts gratefully received!!
  19. Hello Guila. You need to take the kick strip off at the bottom of the machine at the front. The drain tube should just fit onto a spout on the pump. I've no idea why they keep coming off - must be a very bad design. If one came off mid-cycle it would completely flood the kitchen.
  20. Hi, I have an issue where my emergency draining tube has come out and I need to try to put it back in, what exactly am I looking for when I put it in? Can't really put it on it's side so we are going to try and hold it on the angle while my partner attempts to put it back in but should we be looking for anything in particular? Tried googling what it looks like and I can't for the life of me find anything. We have a samsung WF7708N6W1
  21. Hi, thanks for getting back to me, I have contacted Miele for some tech. support.
  22. Hi Jack. I have several very comprehensive articles on Whitegoodshelp describing every possible cause of a washer not draining the water - even very unlikely ones. It would be a question of going through them all carefully, and looking at all the other related articles linked to from the first one to look at all possibilities washing machine not draining the water out
  23. Earlier
  24. The service agent came out to have a look and couldn't find anything obvious but he suspected a faulty belt, he said it was still fine to use so I successfully did a load later that day. Unfortunately though the next day when I went to use it the thing completely malfunctioned it was refusing to lock the door it would try but give up and start beeping repeatedly with no error code. Then I rang Bosch New Zealand and they got me to try a few things and it ended up getting worse the lock would engage but it wouldn't fill with water and the countdown timer was acting as though everything was fine then the door lock started clicking repeatedly then the door locked display started flashing and the machine started beeping again. The guy at Bosch suspected a faulty control board but said it could also be something else in conjunction with the original fault so now it's at a workshop hopefully to get fixed, and in the meantime I was given an agressive old top loader that has a penchant for shredding towels.
  25. I have an Indesit machine which stopped draining. I did some YouTubing and tried all the basic self fixes, I checked all the pipes for blockages and then checked the pump filter, which did have a few hair clips in it. Thinking issue sorted I tried again and still not draining. I’ve now tested the pump itself with a multimeter and it’s giving a resistance reading of 190. So seems to be fine. Out if ideas and would prefer to refrain from phoning a repair guy especially if it’s something I can fix myself. Thanks in advance jack
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