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  3. Ah right, I had a feeling it might be something like that. Oh well. Thanks for coming back to me Andy, I appreciate it.
  4. It's definitely possible for something like a faulty motor to blow something in a pcb. Ideally it should be checked with an insulation test meter but they are specialist expensive meter only carried by repair engineers.
  5. Can you access the dampers with the back panel off and from underneath with the washing machine laid on its front?
  6. It doesn't sound promising You need a specialist insulation test meter to trace faults that blow the electrics. So there's probably an insulation fault that blew the electrics and possibly damaged something in the pcb. You really need an engineer or a new washing machine to be honest.
  7. Hello. Is the clicking noise present when the motor runs or when the drum is turned?
  8. Hi, My machine has developed a clicking problem. I replaced the brushes yesterday as they were well worn but the clicking sound continues, it won't go through a wash cycle but it will fill with water and drain but it also will not spin. Any gurus out there with some advice please? I'm no electrician so I may need talking through any possibilities. Many thanks.
  9. Hi. I went to turn on my washing machine this morning and it tripped the electrics with a bang. I returned the trip switch and tried again. This is what's now happening: https://youtu.be/ZCni6w2WVGE As soon as I turn the programme dial to begin (which typically acts as 'power on' but doesn't start the wash cycle itself), a loud repeated clicking happens (as in, 4 clicks a second) and the lights across the whole top section of buttons all flicker. When I return the programme dial to the off position, the clicking stops a second later. What I've tried, to no avail: Checked the drum, seal and filter for debris. Inserted a new fuse in the plug. Plugged the machine into a different wall outlet. Had an electrician in to confirm the kitchen electrics and sockets are ok. I don't have a continuity test meter to trace faults. Reading the information on this site, something is telling me it could be related to the door lock - I think because the clicking sound is similar to the one I normally hear when the door unlocks after a wash - it's just that right now there are a continuous stream of clicks. As far as I'm able to check this, I can't see any obstruction. Has anyone experienced anything similar? The machine is a Swan SW2022W and it was in the house when I moved in 6 months ago. I use it once a week, if that. It will be out of warranty now but I believe it is about 3 years old. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  10. I need to change the dampers on my Bosch WFF 2001 washing machine. So far I have removed the top and the 3 screws by the Powder dispenser but i cannot see any way to remove the front where i understand I can access the dampers. Can someone please give me some advice as to what to do next please or let me know where a write up or video can be found please.
  11. Hi, In March 2018 I had an issue with my ISE W288 when it stopped mid cycle. I managed to track the problem down to a blown resister and chip on the controller board. Because my soldering skills were not up to scratch i ended up buying a new controller. Everything was working fine until a week ago when I heard a loud pop and the machine stopped mid cycle again. This time I traced the problem to the motor Frequency Converter Module. A small surface mounted capacitor has blown and taken out a number of other small components at the same time. My question is could there be something else wrong with my washing machine that is causing components to blow or am i worrying too much. As you can understand I am reluctant to install the new module that I have purchased if it is going to blow again.
  12. Hi Richard. Domestic appliance engineers don’t actually deal with circuits diagrams of the pcb. If the motor isn’t running we test the motor and the connections to it. If they are all ok and no break between the motor harness wires and the pcb connections it has to be the pcb.
  13. Hi. There should be Live AC mains on pin 4 of the side connector on the main board that connects all the wires to the drum motor. I've traced the cicuit back from pin 4 towards mains source and it looks there is a switch that Live mains must pass. I post a picture of the arrangement that is possibly faulty. Can you please tell me what it is? Between 2 & 3 is a switch, but what is between 1 & 2? I think I may have a situation where we have a good situation between pins 1 & 2, but not pins 2 & 3. Thanks.
  14. Many of them just slot into a box spanner of about 8 to 10 mm but more expensive ones should come with a tool to put them in.
  15. Hello. It should just be a normal torks bit that I would expect to be included in any torks set. They can be bought for as little as just £2 or £3. A torks set is really a necessary tool these days as they are everywhere so you might want to spend a few pounds more but any "set" should cover all the common sizes. Search online for torks set.
  16. Hi all, I've been all around the internet trying to work this one out; I need to replace a broken handle on my Hotpoint WDPG 9640 (I think it's one of the Hotpoint-Ariston ones) and am fairly confident, however I need a Torx driver to get the door off of the hinge in order to fit the new handle. What size of Torx driver do I need for this? I don't want to spend a load of money on a (for me) single use tool that's going to be wrong. Thanks!
  17. Thanks Richard. An obstruction like a face-wipe could get inside the pump and stop it draining the water out. That could prevent it from doing the fast spin as a washing machine shouldn't spin with water inside. I can't imagine how it could cause the motor to stop running though. Not unless it somehow physically jammed the drum and seized it up.
  18. Hi. You know, I've always doubted that my motor is faulty. Because the previous wash it worked and the next wash not. No intermittent operation. In fact, I've managed to test rotor, stator and Tachometer and all test OK for continuity. The relays are operating and the cycle completes. It's looking to me that the motor not running is down to that shredded paper facewipe that I found in the previous wash. I'll let you know if I manage to psche out the reason for motor not running. I have managed to aquire the washer circuit. Drains perfectly and tube to pressure swiich (filling up with water) is clear. Rich
  19. Earlier
  20. Ok. At least with the wires attached you can be sure which wires go where, which might not otherwise be possible if they were all burned out.
  21. Thanks for your reply, ive managed to find the full cable with plug already attached on the manufacturers website, thing is its 20 quid and i dont need the cable, when i spoke on the phone to them the bloke couldnt really help unfortunately. Its frustrating because ill bet you can get a bag of a 100 of them little connectors for less than a fiver!
  22. Try entering the (full) model number in 4washerhelp and scroll through all the parts for it. If you can’t see it send in a part request and if it’s available they can look it up. Parts like that are often very hard to get.
  23. I'm fixing my mother in laws washing machine, and found the cables that go into the door interlock were corroded and have burnt out. I managed to find a new door interlock easy enough online (ZV-446) but the snap connector where the cables terminate and plug into the interlock is also fried and I am really struggling to find anything even close online. I'm just wondering if anyone can help, maybe I'm not searching for the right thing. below is a link to images of the plug I'm trying to source any help greatly appreciated! https://imgur.com/a/JmjcziK
  24. Hello Richard. I can't imagine resetting a washing machine can get the motor to run if the motor is not running due to a fault. Unfortunately if the motor isn't running it could be caused by at least a dozen totally different faults. In all honesty if the washing machine is 21 years old I'm not sure it's worth pursuing. I'm surprised you've been able to buy any parts for it at all as most of them are very likely to be obsolete by now. Checking the motor's thermal cutout should be straightforward enough if you have a reasonable idea what you are doing. They are normally about half a dozen pins that you can check continuity for. There should only be the carbon brushes, the field coil and TOC to check. However, again, if the TOC has gone there is no guarantee hasn't gone because a more serious fault occurred on the motor. TOC's are thermal overload cutouts and only supposed to fail if the motor dangerously overheats.
  25. Hello. It sounds like it may have well just be dried lint. I would clear as much of it away as you can manually and run it through several drying cycles to see if you can get rid of it. Remember to leave the cold water supply turned on when using the drying cycle as the dryer needs it to condense the water. I would also try washing a few loads on a 60° wash cycle to help clear everything out.
  26. If the motor is sparking excessively then it is definitely not good. If it isn't, then it's hard to suggest what to do. I've never heard of a fault on the tacho coil or magnet that would cause this sort of issue. If they are faulty then either the motor stops working altogether, or it spins out of control. As I said it sounds like the motor is not receiving a smooth voltage. That could be caused potentially by a component inside the PCB. But I'm not in a position to suggest that replacing an expensive PCB will definitely cure it. Apart from doublechecking all of the connections and wires on the motor plug and in the harness going down to the PCB there's not much else you could do. You could try tentatively using the washing machine but there is a possibility that it could jump and leap about violently if the motor isn't under proper control. If you do risk it you need to be on hand to switch it off if it suddenly leaps about. If that did happen it is possible for the washing machine to sustain damage so it has to be your call.
  27. Good morning, Is it dangerous or bad for the motor to keep my repair like this or must I replace the tacho and the magnet? After hearing the sounds, do you think the PCB is in question as you said in a previous answer? Or do you think there is probably another problem!?
  28. I have just acquired this machine which is 2 years old. Im not sure when it was last used. When checking the dryer program it immediately blew a load of white/dark grey kind of grit mixed with sand into the door gasket. I've taken the top of to inspect and noted it has a kind of white furry powder stuck around the fan housing, looks very much like when a battery leaks acid and it firs up. I really don't want to strip the dryer part as I know how difficult it is to take apart. Any advice appreciated please as what it could be and whether I should inspect further. I am guessing maybe it's just a build up of lint etc?
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