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  4. Hi, In March 2018 I had an issue with my ISE W288 when it stopped mid cycle. I managed to track the problem down to a blown resister and chip on the controller board. Because my soldering skills were not up to scratch i ended up buying a new controller. Everything was working fine until a week ago when I heard a loud pop and the machine stopped mid cycle again. This time I traced the problem to the motor Frequency Converter Module. A small surface mounted capacitor has blown and taken out a number of other small components at the same time. My question is could there be something else wrong with my washing machine that is causing components to blow or am i worrying too much. As you can understand I am reluctant to install the new module that I have purchased if it is going to blow again.
  5. Hi Richard. Domestic appliance engineers don’t actually deal with circuits diagrams of the pcb. If the motor isn’t running we test the motor and the connections to it. If they are all ok and no break between the motor harness wires and the pcb connections it has to be the pcb.
  6. Hi. There should be Live AC mains on pin 4 of the side connector on the main board that connects all the wires to the drum motor. I've traced the cicuit back from pin 4 towards mains source and it looks there is a switch that Live mains must pass. I post a picture of the arrangement that is possibly faulty. Can you please tell me what it is? Between 2 & 3 is a switch, but what is between 1 & 2? I think I may have a situation where we have a good situation between pins 1 & 2, but not pins 2 & 3. Thanks.
  7. Many of them just slot into a box spanner of about 8 to 10 mm but more expensive ones should come with a tool to put them in.
  8. Hello. It should just be a normal torks bit that I would expect to be included in any torks set. They can be bought for as little as just £2 or £3. A torks set is really a necessary tool these days as they are everywhere so you might want to spend a few pounds more but any "set" should cover all the common sizes. Search online for torks set.
  9. Hi all, I've been all around the internet trying to work this one out; I need to replace a broken handle on my Hotpoint WDPG 9640 (I think it's one of the Hotpoint-Ariston ones) and am fairly confident, however I need a Torx driver to get the door off of the hinge in order to fit the new handle. What size of Torx driver do I need for this? I don't want to spend a load of money on a (for me) single use tool that's going to be wrong. Thanks!
  10. Thanks Richard. An obstruction like a face-wipe could get inside the pump and stop it draining the water out. That could prevent it from doing the fast spin as a washing machine shouldn't spin with water inside. I can't imagine how it could cause the motor to stop running though. Not unless it somehow physically jammed the drum and seized it up.
  11. Hi. You know, I've always doubted that my motor is faulty. Because the previous wash it worked and the next wash not. No intermittent operation. In fact, I've managed to test rotor, stator and Tachometer and all test OK for continuity. The relays are operating and the cycle completes. It's looking to me that the motor not running is down to that shredded paper facewipe that I found in the previous wash. I'll let you know if I manage to psche out the reason for motor not running. I have managed to aquire the washer circuit. Drains perfectly and tube to pressure swiich (filling up with water) is clear. Rich
  12. Ok. At least with the wires attached you can be sure which wires go where, which might not otherwise be possible if they were all burned out.
  13. Thanks for your reply, ive managed to find the full cable with plug already attached on the manufacturers website, thing is its 20 quid and i dont need the cable, when i spoke on the phone to them the bloke couldnt really help unfortunately. Its frustrating because ill bet you can get a bag of a 100 of them little connectors for less than a fiver!
  14. Try entering the (full) model number in 4washerhelp and scroll through all the parts for it. If you can’t see it send in a part request and if it’s available they can look it up. Parts like that are often very hard to get.
  15. I'm fixing my mother in laws washing machine, and found the cables that go into the door interlock were corroded and have burnt out. I managed to find a new door interlock easy enough online (ZV-446) but the snap connector where the cables terminate and plug into the interlock is also fried and I am really struggling to find anything even close online. I'm just wondering if anyone can help, maybe I'm not searching for the right thing. below is a link to images of the plug I'm trying to source any help greatly appreciated! https://imgur.com/a/JmjcziK
  16. Hello Richard. I can't imagine resetting a washing machine can get the motor to run if the motor is not running due to a fault. Unfortunately if the motor isn't running it could be caused by at least a dozen totally different faults. In all honesty if the washing machine is 21 years old I'm not sure it's worth pursuing. I'm surprised you've been able to buy any parts for it at all as most of them are very likely to be obsolete by now. Checking the motor's thermal cutout should be straightforward enough if you have a reasonable idea what you are doing. They are normally about half a dozen pins that you can check continuity for. There should only be the carbon brushes, the field coil and TOC to check. However, again, if the TOC has gone there is no guarantee hasn't gone because a more serious fault occurred on the motor. TOC's are thermal overload cutouts and only supposed to fail if the motor dangerously overheats.
  17. Hello. It sounds like it may have well just be dried lint. I would clear as much of it away as you can manually and run it through several drying cycles to see if you can get rid of it. Remember to leave the cold water supply turned on when using the drying cycle as the dryer needs it to condense the water. I would also try washing a few loads on a 60° wash cycle to help clear everything out.
  18. If the motor is sparking excessively then it is definitely not good. If it isn't, then it's hard to suggest what to do. I've never heard of a fault on the tacho coil or magnet that would cause this sort of issue. If they are faulty then either the motor stops working altogether, or it spins out of control. As I said it sounds like the motor is not receiving a smooth voltage. That could be caused potentially by a component inside the PCB. But I'm not in a position to suggest that replacing an expensive PCB will definitely cure it. Apart from doublechecking all of the connections and wires on the motor plug and in the harness going down to the PCB there's not much else you could do. You could try tentatively using the washing machine but there is a possibility that it could jump and leap about violently if the motor isn't under proper control. If you do risk it you need to be on hand to switch it off if it suddenly leaps about. If that did happen it is possible for the washing machine to sustain damage so it has to be your call.
  19. Good morning, Is it dangerous or bad for the motor to keep my repair like this or must I replace the tacho and the magnet? After hearing the sounds, do you think the PCB is in question as you said in a previous answer? Or do you think there is probably another problem!?
  20. I have just acquired this machine which is 2 years old. Im not sure when it was last used. When checking the dryer program it immediately blew a load of white/dark grey kind of grit mixed with sand into the door gasket. I've taken the top of to inspect and noted it has a kind of white furry powder stuck around the fan housing, looks very much like when a battery leaks acid and it firs up. I really don't want to strip the dryer part as I know how difficult it is to take apart. Any advice appreciated please as what it could be and whether I should inspect further. I am guessing maybe it's just a build up of lint etc?
  21. Hi. I've looked at the brushes and they are 1/2" in length. I think they will be seviceable, but I've gone and ordered new brushes. I'm not sure if you can reset a Classixx 1000 model and whether this is an issue. There is this, but not sure if it applies to my model: * Turn the program dial to the off or reset position (should be at the 12 o'clock position) * Turn the dial to the 6 o'clock position. * Press and hold down on the spin button and simultaneously turn the dial to the 7 o'clock position. * Hold the spin button for around 5 seconds and then release. The spin button on my model might be the 1000/600 button. "(T)urm the dial to the 7 o'clock position" is a bit cryptic and lacks specificity! Next postion on my model from the 6 o'clock position would be "Drain". I may have to check the motor's thermal cut-out I suspect.
  22. The first one sounds like it's not getting even power so the motor seems to be surging a bit. I can only assume it's related to the fault you've been having.
  23. Beko are one of the cheapest washing machines so they aren't likely to be excellent although I'm not aware of any particularly bad reputation regarding washing machine reliability. The best place to check for current thinking is Which? I have just updated my article on the subject which might be of interest - Which is the best washing machine?
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  25. Good afternoon, Thanks a lot for your answer. I've dismounted the tacho again and I've noticed that the two metal parts weren't in contact anymore. Perhaps because I've pushed the tacho ring a little bit too deep in its emplacement. I've glued these two metal parts at the plastic part with a strong glue (Have you another solution?). I don't know if it will hold on a long time! The washermachine works again. \o/ But it does a strange sound when it's washing. It doesn't do this sound when it's spinning. I attach two sound's files, so you can hear it. I there something else wrong? Can I verify something else? Thanks in advance for your answer. Have a nice day Yvan Washing.wav Spinning.wav
  26. Yes worn carbon brushes are number one suspect especially if they’ve never been replaced. It can be other things too but check them first. To be honest at 21 years it’s quite possible that the main armature in the motor is also worn. Read this article for further help there’s a link to carbon brush diagnostics in it too washing machine motor not running
  27. Hi. I've had my Classixx 1000 about 21 years. Yesterday it successfully washed, but today the motor is not working. Because I found some remnants of a paper facewipe in yesterdays wash, I wondered (at first) if I had a drainage problem, but now I know the fault is simply that the motor has failed to run at all. The wash program actually starts and ends, i.e. I do not get a fault indication. During the program I can hear clicking that appears to come from the main circuit board. I surmise I'm hearing the operation of a relay. The drum spins easily and the belt is good. So, I'm wondering if anyone can suggest what the fault is. Is it likely to be worn brushes, given the suddeness of the appearance of the fault? Thanks.
  28. I'm not sure about the Beko as some state it's 54cm deep but others says 59cm. I was more wondering about the general reliability regarding Beko. The John Lewis, Zanussi and Belling definitely fit though and the JL does give a 3 year guarantee as well.
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