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  2. Hello Andy Many thanks for the analysis. I really appreciate it. Even to me, as a non-professional, it feels as if it’s just catching a stray wire every now and again. So far when it has tripped, it trips only once during the program. Every time I have reset the RCD, it continues where it left off from and completes the program. Just yesterday I did another laundry load and both programs (Cottons-60 followed by an 800-Spin cycle) completed successfully on the supposedly faulty socket. I once again spent 30 minutes trying to video it tripping during the rinse cycles or final spin, but nothing happened. When he said there would be scratches on the back panel, I said to myself that there wouldn’t be any marks if the drum were bouncing side to side. Perhaps I should have mentioned it. He probably would have taken offence to that, too. Regarding the power socket, he told me the exact same thing two years ago. He said the primary mains socket I use for the machine is likely faulty and that I should use another socket. I took his advice on that occasion and plugged my previous machine into the other wall socket. It continued to trip the mains. That’s why I was frustrated by his suggestion to run a long wash program on the other socket. I’ve done it several before with the previous Bosch and it still tripped the mains. My contention was that how could a power socket which he deemed faulty two years ago be able to power my current bigger 8kg machine for just over two years without any trips. Surely a faulty wall socket would have not been able to last that long with the demands of a high-power appliance. As mentioned my previous machine also tripped several times on the other socket. I doubt both sockets are faulty. Even if I went to trouble of running my current machine on the other socket, there is no guarantee that it would trip, so on each occasion I would have to drag the machine out from its original position to plug it into the other socket, all in the hope that it would trip. I just think he is fobbing me off with the same diagnosis he used two years ago and personally I don’t believe that the socket is at fault. As you say if it genuinely was the socket, it should trip during the power intensive wash cycle. It has never done this. It has only tripped when the drum is coming to a halt, or about to start ramping up. It also tripped when the entire cycle came to an end and the machine was about to start beeping to signal the end of the program. Again these are all low power moments in the machine’s operating cycle. The machine’s wall socket is located underneath my sink at the far end. The machine is located in front of the sink under the worktop (think of an L shape with the machine being under the short side of the L and the sink top running across the long side. The socket is located where the two lines meet). There is a wooden panel separating the socket and machine. In other words, there is a clear physical separation between the machine and the socket, so there’s no chance of the machine or the drain hose coming into contact with the power socket. Owing to the awkward location of the socket that the machine is plugged into, I rarely touch it. I’ve only had to touch it when there has been an issue with the machine. The socket is solely dedicated to the washer. Nothing else ever gets plugged into it. I inspected the plug and it looked fine, no black burn marks or damage. I don’t understand why he had such a problem with taking the lid off. It’s not really a big thing for him to do. It seems like the most obvious thing to during the initial fault finding investigation. He didn’t even try to move the drum around nor did he look underneath the machine. He just kept telling me that he could inspect all the wires through the hole at the back. It felt as if he wanted to attribute it all to the socket, again. Yep, the fact that it is intermittent is incredibly frustrating. It’s also less frequent too, compared to the previous Bosch, which makes it harder to capture. Full laundry load done yesterday and it was all fine. I’m going to try again tomorrow and see what happens. My main aim is just to try to capture it tripping at least once and have the evidence on video. Switching to the other socket is going to be a big inconvenience as I will have to bring the machine out into the main kitchen area on each occasion. There’s also balancing issues I am concerned about as the tiling on my floor is uneven. The machine is rock solid in its original location. I can’t be sure that will stay like that once it is moved. I think my best bet is to try to capture it tripping on video and work from there. I still haven’t paid for the call out, but if I am forced to then I will cough up. But I will raise my concerns with Bosch about the way the engineer decided to do things. From my point of view, he deliberately skipped an important part of the fault finding process for no good reason. I am also going to bring up the previous machine and how he also told me to use the other socket which did not stop the machine from tripping. I’ll keep you posted. Thank you again.
  3. Thanks for explaining this. If Hotpoint had been able to give me the part Number from the serial number i gave them I wouldn't have had any problems, but there are huge problems getting through to them at the moment by phone. I did go on to their spares parts list and was given the a part Number (30mm) which was wrong, but was able to return these to Ransom Spares after I ordered the 35mm size. Yes, it was a huge job and not for the faint hearted - the tricky part is getting the old ones out and putting the new ones in and not damaging the bearings in the process. One of the bearings was full of water and rusty, but both were replaced. And not to mention all the other parts that need to come off and go back in the right place. YouTube tutorials are also a great help!
  4. Thanks for your quick response, Andy. I have taken the machine apart and split the outer tub to find a melted lump of rubber/plastic jamming between the inner drum and the outer tub. Also there are serious rub/melted plastic/burn marks inside the bottom of the rear outer tub. Looks like the inner steel drum has been rubbing around on it for quite a while. Not sure what the initial cause was but I too suspect overloading - she who must be obeyed disagrees as it is she who does the laundry (no, I'm not a chauvinist, we just split the chores!). The cost of replacement parts is between 3 and 4 hundred so we won't be pursuing that avenue - time for a new machine (and smaller loads!).
  5. That's a very sensible attitude, I hate the thought of anyone messing about with things they aren't sure about. As I predicted, of course they will test OK. The fault causing tripping only happens on spin - and only then for a fraction of a second. The fact that when it trips, the washing machine subsequently works perfectly well shows that the cause is not only intermittent but very fleeting. So even after it has tripped the engineer is unlikely to detect anything. This is exactly what would happen if the drum was catching something or a chaffed wire somewhere in the harness is touching something as the drum moves around. It's not the only possibility but definitely the first suspect to investigate. You could say if a washing machine is tripping that the most common causes are the heater and motor - but not that they are the only causes by any stretch. Not necessarily. If it is bouncing side to side it should never touch the back panel. If it is bouncing very violently then you would expect marks or dints in the sides, but it isn't necessarily bouncing that violently. You would hear it thumping if it was. But on spin the drum may still be moving about enough to cause a chafed wire to short out. I've had lots of them, sometimes underneath the washing machine around the motor wiring harness for example. Remember though, I'm not saying it can only be cause by a wire - only that it's the most likely explanation considering the symptoms. Those small testers can't test a wall socket properly. They are useful. I use them myself because they can detect if the live and neutral are the wrong way around, or if there is no earth at all. But they can't tell if the earth it detects is good enough, it could just be one strand of copper or a proper good earth but the tester wouldn't know. Wall sockets are tested by electricians using a proper insulation test meter. Testing it in a different wall socket would only be helpful if it also tripped in the different socket. It would show that it wasn't just the wall socket you normally use. If on the other hand it did not trip in a different socket then that wouldn't prove anything. It often completes cycle without tripping in the normal socket. The fault only ever occurs on exactly the same point of the spin cycle. So I can't imagine how a wall socket could possibly only ever trip at that point. If it only ever tripped on the wash cycle, when the washing machine is drawing the most power, then I could see some sense in suspecting that, but on spin the washing machine is using very little power. It only trips when the drum is ramping up or down from spin with certain loads in. I genuinely can't imagine how a wall socket could cause that. However, I have had cases where the washing machine turned off the switch on a wall socket. It was caused because when the washing machine was pushed back into position the hoses pressed against the socket right at the back of the machine. Then when it went into a spin and the washing machine moved around a little it actually switched the socket off. If by any chance your wall socket is right behind the washing machine make sure the washer and hoses aren't pressing on it. If it has a switch it could potentially be knocking it and theoretically if it half pressed the switch of you could get arcing inside the switch that could trip a sensitive RCD. I would say wiring in walls and sockets can't wear out. It doesn't move, it's not subject to any stresses or strains. But wires connected to wall sockets can become loose if the brass screws they use to wire them in work loose. That's quite common. This would normally cause overheating of the wall socket and the plug during heating when it draws most power. That usually causes burn marks around where the plug plugs in. It would also normally only cause problems on the wash cycle. It is 100% necessary to take off the lid and back panel, and also to inspect underneath the washing machine to properly investigate an intermittent fusing or tripping fault during wind down from spin. There are plenty of wires under the lid you need to inspect. Oh dear. As you know there is definitely a fault, and it only ever happens intermittently and at one specific point then if any engineer does not find a fault how can that mean there is no fault? If they don't find the fault it is only because they haven't the time to test and check it properly. Intermittent faults can be a nightmare, and unfortunately engineers don't have the time to spend on them if the cause doesn't show up straight away. This is why I suggested you try to catch it doing it on video but of course it might take several attempts to do it. If an engineer can't find a fault then there are only two possible explanations, either they haven't been able to find it due to lack of time, lack of experience or just the difficult nature of it - or the customer is completely imagining the whole thing. The latter of course is ludicrous for any engineer to imply. No engineer can say with any certainty that if they can't find a fault then there is nothing wrong. I have an article about that here Repair company want to charge if engineer can’t find fault I can only advise that you only use the washing machine in a different socket and film it every time it comes to the spin section until you film it doing it. You can then say 2 things for certain, that it is not the socket you normally use and there is without doubt a fault that they cannot deny.
  6. If the door seal breaks apart where it is close to the lip of the drum it can be caused if the drum is overloaded and items of laundry get stuck between the gap and the drum then drags it around. It can also be caused by excessive play in the drum if the drum spider is cracked or the drum bearings badly worn.
  7. I have the exact same problem with a Samsung Ecobubble. We replaced a disintegrated door seal (rubber bits all over the laundry) only 6 washes ago and it is happening again already. The drum has now seized solid. I am reluctant to spend time and/or money on it as I suspect it is just a bad 'un and the drum will never sit concentric in the door seal.
  8. Hello Andy Thanks. Unfortunately, I am not confident about taking the covers off myself. I don’t even have right tools. Where do I begin? The Bosch engineer turned up today and I instantly realised that he was same engineer who first looked at my faulty brand new 7kg Bosch (which my current machine replaced) two years ago. That machine had the same – but more frequent – intermittent tripping fault. On that occasion he declared the machine fault free and attributed the tripping to a faulty power socket in my home. He advised me to use another socket, which I did, and it continued to trip, forcing me to call out a second engineer who declared a motor fault. That machine, which was about three weeks old, was uplifted by John Lewis and replaced with my current one, which has been flawless for just over two years. Anyway back to today. He recognised me and I reminded of the same intermittent fault I had with the previous Bosch two years (the one he declared fault free). I explained that my current machine was intermittently tripping on the spin down and spin up phases. I said the recent load I did yesterday completed with no problems. He took all of this on board and pulled the machine out. My kitchen is tiny. He asked keep my 2 metre distance which I did, but this also meant I was unable to see exactly what he was doing. Once he had machine the pulled out, he ran the electrical tests. He said he needed to test the heater and motor. For some reason he came equipped with a new heating element. I told him it has never tripped during the wash phase of the cycle. I couldn’t see which program he was running, but I presume it was the quick wash. He said the metre was show 9 amps and this was ok. While it was running, I suggested whether it could be the machine catching on some internal wiring. He said if it’s tripping it would either be the motor or the heater, but the tests were showing that these were fine. He then hopped to the back of the machine and unscrewed the back panel. He said wiring all looked fine. I asked him whether the drum could be “bouncing” and catching something. He held the back panel up and said if the drum was bouncing there would be marks on the inside of the panel (the panel was clean). He also used those small devices with several lights to check the power sockets. After doing all of this, he said he wanted to run a longer wash program with clothes in drum on a different socket and that he would go and call me later to check how it was going. When I heard this I just felt he was trying to attribute the fault to my power sockets again just as he did two years with the previous machine. I asked him what he thought the problem was and he said it’s probably my power socket. I reminded him that he told me the same thing two years ago and that if the sockets were faulty, my current machine would not be to run problem-free for two years. He said over time the wiring in the sockets can wear out (he said the same thing two years ago). I felt as if he was fobbing me off again with the “it’s your power socket” explanation. The machine has done over 300 washes over two years without ever tripping. My mains only trips when the machine is on. So with your advice in my mind, I just asked him to take the lid / top cover off and check the internal wiring thoroughly. And that’s when things took a turn for the worse. He seemed incredibly insulted by this request. He said he didn’t need to take lid off as he checked the wiring through the hole in back panel. He asked me if I ran the machine on another socket I said yes and he said he didn’t believe me. I reminded him again that he told me my socket was faulty last time which forced me to call a second engineer and that I could not afford to do that again. Upon hearing this he told again that I need to test the machine on a different socket and that I could get a second opinion if I am not satisfied with his diagnosis. I asked again if he could look at the wiring properly. He went to back panel and said “ok you’re the engineer you look at it”. I said I was not trying to undermine him and asked again if he could top cover to check the wiring. By this time his body language and general behaviour was becoming more hostile. Perhaps stupidly I said I was not going to pay unless he checked the wiring. (I was struggling to contain my frustration about the fact that he was literally attributing the fault to the same reason he used two years ago.) And at this point he had enough. He said he didn’t need to be here and that he was no longer going to carry on with the job because I said I wouldn’t pay. I attempted to reason with him by saying that I would be happy to pay if he just checked the internal wiring properly. He refused to do it. He hastily screwed the back panel on pushed machine back in and left it wobbling and did not plug it in. The plug socket is located in an awkward location which was difficult for me to reach. I have managed to reposition the machine so that it does not wobble. He left without saying anything. I contacted Bosch straight away and they have referred the case to the complaints department. I have not paid for the call out yet. So now I still have machine that intermittently trips and it is likely I will have to part with £100 for nothing. I don’t think my request was unreasonable. I just feel so depressed about it at the moment and feel as if I have no recourse. If I had known, I would be getting the very same engineer who incorrectly declared my previous machine fault free, I would have asked for someone else. He has literally attributed to the fault to the same thing he said was the problem two years – my power socket. That my current more powerful machine has managed to deliver successful fault free washes for just over two years while connected to the supposedly faulty mains socket seems to make no difference to his power socket theory. Bosch has told that if I arrange for a second engineer visit and they don’t find a fault, I will be charged another £100. I can’t afford that. I don’t know where to turn or what do next. I didn’t expect to receive this kind of service from Bosch of all manufacturers. Any thoughts on the engineer’s fault-finding methods and diagnosis or advice welcome.
  9. Thanks for the update. The bearing kit should always have the front and rear bearing. The rear bearing is the smaller. So you should normally replace both. It's a shame you had so much trouble finding the right part, you should never need to know the actual sizes of bearings unless you are getting bearings from a bearing company. Manufacturers do often fit different parts inside the same model so it is possible to order the wrong part but parts are normally identified by using the model number and the serial number. So the people you ask for help should have asked you for your serial number. The way it works is when a manufacturer continues to make a specific model, but decides to change the specs or the design of a particular part they log the manufacturing serial number codes where the first new part is fitted. So for example they know that all WMA9P washing machines up to a specific serial number have one version of the parts fitted, and then from that serial number onwards all WMA9P washing machines have a different part. If they then subsequently change the part again, which is more rare but can happen then they would have it in their system that all WMA9P washing machines up to xxxxxxxxxxxyz serial number have one type of part fitted. All WMA9P washing machines between xxxxxxxxxxxyz and xxxxyyyyyyyyy serial numbers have another part fitted. And all WMA9P from serial numbers xxxxyyyyyyyyy onwards have another. So when you need to buy spare part for one of these washing machines if different parts are available for the same model that should be just a simple case of working it out from the serial number. And I am glad you managed to get it done. It's a big job.
  10. Just to let anyone else know that my machine required 35mm bearings - although in the drum bearing kit there are two bearings (one 35mm and one approx 30mm) with the seal. Fitted successfully and machine is running very well - and quiet!! !!
  11. Have you taken the lid and back panel off and had a look yourself? It could be something quite obvious.
  12. Hi Andy I did a standard laundry load today and had my smartphone's camera at the ready during the spin phases. It completed both the Cottons-60 and 800-spin programs without tripping the mains. It really does seem as if I have another hard-to-replicate intermittent tripping problem. The engineer is scheduled to visit tomorrow. I have a test load ready, but my hopes of it tripping on demand are low. I will see how it goes. I'll let you know of the outcome. Thanks
  13. Karen, I also have this machine which is still running beautifully after 17yrs.
  14. Also, there are some that do not come off at all and others where they are screwed in from the other side so the drum would have to come out. Have you tried asking Samsung? Alternatively if you can see a photo of one on a spares site you might be able to work out how to fit or some sites even have reviews or instructions for certain parts.
  15. Hello Mike. Unfortunately it differs from machine to machine. Some will slide back and off, and some have a specific hole that you press a small screwdriver into to release a lug.
  16. i got a hotpoint 2in1 washer dry the model no is FDF 9640p uk it’s started to bleep during the wash cycle with no reason there is no error codes on the countdown display. does the cycles completely fine drum is turning normally. i thought it might be trying to tell me to put it on a auto clean cycle which i did then did a normal cycle afterwards then it didn’t bleep at all. but after i put another load of washing in after that one the bleeping started again, so i thought it could be the pump filter this time so did that few days later and it still bleeping, i had some bottles of things at the side of the machine before i taken them out and had it on and no bleeping maybe combined of doing the two other things as well, also is it to do with the weight in the drum i just want to know what if anyone has got the same problem and if i can do anything to sort it out it now getting annoying
  17. Any advice on how to replace a Samsung washing machine drum lifter. You tube videos show different brands and quite simple to do, but suggested method isn't working. Any suggestions? Thank Mike
  18. Hi Andy Thanks for tips. Honestly, I am worried that with it being an intermittent fault, the engineer will find nothing and end up declaring it fault free. When I had my previous brand new Bosch (which this machine replaced), I had the same intermittent tripping problem. The first Bosch engineer who looked at it ran all the electrical tests and declared that he could not find any faults. The second engineer ran the same tests and fortunately it tripped while spinning and this lead him to conclude that it was a motor fault. On both occasions the machine I had was never opened up. I will have to find some old heavy clothes for the test load. I am going to do my best to insist that the machine is opened up to check that all the wiring is in order as you suggested. I just hope the engineer doesn't end up thinking I am trying to insult his intelligence. I just have to cross my fingers and hope that the person who turns up will conduct a proper investigation.
  19. Hello. It wouldn't hurt to replace the NTC too. If the diagram show it at the back that's where it should be. Many are at the front too. Taking the back panel off should be easy and easy to see although built in ones can be very awkward to get out. If it's hard wired into a socket take the fuse out as well as turning off at switch and double check it's not live.
  20. Thanks for the update. Make sure they don't fob you off with an, "I can't see anything wrong" report. Make sure you have a wash load already in the machine that you know has caused it to trip and make sure he fills it with water to make them properly heavy before testing on spin. Otherwise some engineers are likely to just test the machine with an insulation test meter where they are unlikely to find anything because it only trips at the end of spin. Then they may put it on spin (usually without asking for a test load) and of course it won't trip. Then they'll say they can't find anything (unless they can actually see something).
  21. Hi Andy Yep, I agree. The only way to resolve this is to get the covers off and see what's going on inside. I have booked a Bosch engineer to take a look at it later this week. It will cost a flat fee of £99 for the call out, but I have been told that I won't be charged for any parts that may be required. I guess I got lucky there, especially as the machine went out of warranty earlier this year. I will see how it goes and will let you know of the outcome. Thank you for the reply and suggestions.
  22. hello i got a hotpoint 2in1 washer and dryer the model no is FDF 9640 p uk. it started to bleep during a wash cycle recently, i have done a auto clean and clean out the filter pump to see if it was that it was tell me to do but it’s not that. the display on the front doesn’t say anything about the bleeping. it’s still working normally washing stuff i’m thinking it’s to do with the weight in the drum i wait for a response back if anyone can help me
  23. Hi. A heavier load would not necessarily make the problem go away if the drum is catching on something due to movement. A full well balanced may be less likely to trip, but even the exact same wash load can vary on how stable it is on spin each time it's washed. The key to getting to the bottom of a fault like this is to disconnect the washer from the mains and remove the lid and back panel and then search for a possible cause. Move and bounce around the drum by hand to simulate the drum banging about and see if it catches anything. Check all the wiring harnesses and wires running through the machine to see if you can see anything the drum or motor could be catching on.
  24. when u have turn the machine on to a cycle started do u press the delay button
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