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  1. Today
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  3. Hi Lynn I have searched around and been unable to find error codes for Beko Washer Dryers even in the online manual, only for washers. The error codes for washers only go up to e18, it may be that the extended codes relate to the dryer section. The only way to find this out is to got through a self diagnostic test which you should be able to find on the web. The code e23 might be responsible for blowing the main board previously, just guessing though. I don't suppose you know what function/programme it was running before it failed. May give a clue. Regards Rob
  4. Sadly this machine had to go in the end due to unprecedented unreliability. We never got to the bottom of all the white residue within the warm air ducting system. Our machine first failed at 18 months. The fan was seized (no error codes showing) and ducting had the appearance of being subjected to unbelievable corrosive factors. It failed for the fourth and final time this Christmas by tripping the mains electricity RCD as we sat down to a family meal. This was the final straw for having this expensive machine in our lives. Manufacturer service is poor in UK with nearly a three week wait for an engineer. The other issue is this machine weighs 100kgs making it difficult to slide out for maintenance. We've gone back to a Bosch as they've always served us well and I like being able to see the online parts lists and order spares. Having this product leave our lives was a cathartic moment and we won't be going back anytime soon.
  5. (Adding to this thread as it is detailed and comes up when googling) Had exactly same issue with an 8.5 yr old WT 2780 Miele washer/dryer. Grey, grungey, gritty, sandy type debris appears every so often at the end of a wash cycle - collecting on top of glass porthole, inside what are maybe rubber hot air vents around inside of door, and all over clothes (necessitating endless rinse-out-fluff cycles and further clothes rinses. Hard to believe it is limescale - we have used Miele products (liquid, powder) exclusively in order to avoid any service engineer accusing us of neglecting the machine, always used the rinse-out-fluff routine after any drying cycle and regularly use the Miele descaling and cleaning products. The machine is actually little used, on average once a week and a mix of 40/60 degree washes. We've been trying to track down the cause of this intermittent pollution - so far we think it only happens when using liquid detergent at 40 degrees, but could be wrong. We did wonder if there was some issue with Miele liquid detergents having a limited shelf life and turning into something odd when used in the machine, so we've just thrown away any half-empty bottles and ordered new ones. Any ideas? I'll attach a photo to show just how pervasive this debris is. Incidentally the dryer/steam heating element appeared to have failed some time back, as suddenly there was no hot air for drying/steaming (and, as with other users, absolutely no error code shown). Our last Miele appliance service visit left us with little confidence about engineer training in this country at least (or maybe we were just unlucky here), so we haven't bothered to get it fixed as we seldom used the drying feature. (I suppose it might just need the lid off and a black button reset, but on the other hand that would indicate that a safety 'over-heat' had happened, which is hard to understand given the careful rinse-out-fluff routines and descaling that has taken place). Doubt we'd go with Miele for washer-dryers again (the price premium for washer-dryers as opposed to washers being far too greedy compared to other manufacturers, and the machines appearing to be too finicky), but as a matter of interest does anyone know if Miele have changed/improved the workings of the dryer bit in their washer-dryers? Thanks for googling purposes: Miele WT2780 washer dryer washer-dryer grit grey grunge sand debris stain waschtrockner fehler lave-linge séchant taches
  6. last year I bought a television wall bracket from Curry's in Bedford. It was the wrong size it was completely wrapped with the security tag in place. My receipt had blown out of the car I took it back the same day. I was told the same thing "we can not prove that you bought it from use". They use the sale of goods act to their own ends. I am looking for a new washing machine at the moment with a good guarantee. It seems all the major retailors give customers grief now. Don
  7. Yesterday
  8. Hi- this is a useful thread, I only wish I'd seen it a few days ago- same 18 months old BEKO wdr7543121w, replaced the whole PCB (Damn!) , was so pleased I've actually got lights now....but now got an E23 error code. any advice on how to reset ? I've tried the usual- start button hold for 5 s etc? Thanks
  9. Last week
  10. Hi Andy, Yes the tube goes into a plastic syphon vessel at the bottom of the drum, I assume that as water rises it creates pressure in a large vessel which is amplified as it goes into the smaller tube pressing on the sensor - there must be an analogue output into the main PCB which will be related to level as opposed to a single trip level. This may be used to adjust water volumes for different cycles and efficiencies (It has a water plus button for adding more water). Allegedly you can connect a PC to the main board but I don't know how to do this ? this may have options to change programmes and reset this water level transducer. However I still cannot understand why the pump continues to run on at the end - it even allows you to open the door in this state and the pump then stops and will not restart until the next wash is done. Nice system and has worked fine for years but awkward to fix without the knowledge.
  11. Hi , on a spin at the end of wash the washing machine sounded louder than usual and gave off a slight smell of burning. Upon investigation it appears 1 of the carbon brushes has melted slightly the plastic surround. The brush has plenty of life left in it (length) so unsure why it has generated so much heat and melted some of the housing. I have checked the part of the motor it connects to and no obvious issues / reasons why it should have happened? Is it worth replacing the brushes or will the same happen again? please note the unit is only about 1 year old but had stood unused for around 8 month then this occurred on the 2nd cycle following the gap in use . Your help is much appreciated.
  12. I presume the rubber tubing goes to a pressure chamber bottle on the outer drum?
  13. Hi. That’s a novel one. I would expect it works in the same way though. Water creates air pressure that activates a switch. I can’t imagine any other way it could work.
  14. Thanks for the information but this Miele washer appears to use a different sensor (pressure sensor with analogue output) See images of the sensor and fitted to main control board - but as you say this but must be working or the machine would not fill and run through the cycle.
  15. Hello. If it was the pressure system the washing machine would not function without fault or error. Does it complete a wash cycle ok apart from right at the end? I can’t think how the pressure system could have a fault that only shows after the last spin. My article here might be helpful and explains about the pressure system and common faults - how a washing machine controls water levels
  16. Hi Andy, There are no visible leaks and the inlet solenoid is tight. I've looked around the bottom of the drum and there don't appear to be any sensors there - no float or pressure switches or wired sensors. I've checked the tubes around the pump for blockages and all is clear. All I can think is the pressure sensor is also used to detect the water has been cleared by the pump at the end of the cycle - maybe the zero has drifted but I don't know how to check this or reset the zero. Also as standard the washer will let a small amount of water back into the drum at the end of the cycle (I assume to prevent any smells) but I'm not sure how this is measured and controlled. Its really strange. I need a time server Miele guy to reply maybe.
  17. Thanks Andy. I guess I'll have to drag the damned thing out and open it up. Cheers Chris
  18. Thanks so much for helping - I found the casing was stuck in place with strong foam sticky tape - hard to get out but with someone tilting the machine back for me it went back so much easier and thankfully the machine has now has power after replacing the diode - so thanks very very much
  19. Hey Andy, the pumps seems to be working just fine. I disconnected the pressure switch, blew down the tube earlier so it is not a blockage. The PCB change is costly and no guarantee it will fix the issue. I think I might just have to live with it until the wife complains too much and we have to buy a new one. Gary
  20. Hello Gary. Yes if you've already observed that water pumps are okay, but the problem is that it carries on pumping (nothing) then it can't possibly be a fault on the pump, or a blockage in any of the hoses to and from the pump. Any such a blockage would stop the pump from emptying, or reduce its flow capacity to an extent that it timed out on empty because it wasn't emptying fast enough. But a previous post of yours describes how it pump the water okay but just carried on pumping for no reason for a further eight minutes. Therefore the only possible blockage that could cause that is a blockage in the pressure system. Such a blockage is described in detail in the links I put up previously including how to check for it by gently blowing down the pressure tubing. If it isn't anything to do with the pressure system being blocked (we've already established it's not the pressure switch because a new one made no difference) then I can't honestly think of anything else to suggest. I certainly would not speculatively change the PCB, which is always a big risk.
  21. Hi. If the pressure system was at fault it would cause other symptoms on wash, rinse or spin. If the washing machine otherwise works ok I wouldn't suspect the pressure system. There could be an overfill protection on the pressure system, that would fire up the pump if it thinks it is overfilling, but that would also cause it to fault on the wash cycle. Potentially if it thinks it is leaking it may energise a pump to get rid of the water. Check the base of the washing machine for a float switch and system.
  22. Miele W844 washing machine. The cycle finish fine but the pump runs on and does not stop. You can open the door and then it stops The drum is empty and water is pumped out fine. Checked the filter and all is clear and the pump impellor is fine This machine uses a pressure transducer to measure the water level - tried disconnecting the tube to this and the pump still runs on. Are there any other sensors that will keep the pump running at the end of the cycle? Thanks
  23. Hey Andy, Update on my washer. I took all the hoses from around the drain pump out and washed them. To be honest they were not as dirty as I would have thought and there were sadly no blockages. I reassembled and ran the machine empty with a bottle of this special washing formula to clean your machine out. Ran with no issues but that has never been a problem when it's been empty. On the first real load at 40C the errors were still present and at the same point in the cycle. On the second load, at the point where the drainage pump runs for nearly 10 minutes I disconnected the pressure switch. The machine completely stopped showing 21 minutes on the timer. I plugged the switch back in, the time jumped back to 26 minutes and the machine continued to the end without the F17 error. I am baffled as to where the problem is. The pressure switch was a replacement so is fairly new. Where else could the problem lie? Could it be something electronic? Cheers in advance. Gary
  24. Thanks Andy. Im going for a Samsung ecobubble WW70J5555FX at an A+++ economy rating. 5 year parts guarantee. Cant be too bad.
  25. If it also seems to spend a lot of time filling with water it could be siphoning down the drain. Check this article,which describes siphoning about halfway through - Washing machine filling but losing water at same time
  26. Hello Barry, it seems the majority of new washing machines have sealed outer drums now. The symptoms you describe are classic drum bearing failure. The brown rust marks at the back are caused by water leaking into the bearings through the drum bearing seal. In my experience Hotpoint have always had rubbish drum bearing seals. Drum bearing failure has always been a very common issue. I would never buy a Whirlpool, Hotpoint or Indesit appliance. To be honest, there are very few of the common brands I would buy.
  27. Hi, can anyone tell me what the running water sound behind my 7 months year old washing machine could be. No water, just the sound. Bosch unwilling to come out! Thanks
  28. I purchased a Hotpoint HV7L1451p front loader in 2017 as a replacement on my insurance for a previous Hotpoint. It has been making loud noises during wash and spin cycles and stopped spinning. Upon inspection. The belt detached (now attached) and there was a lot of brown deposits of rust on the drum, back detachable panel and the floor under the machine. If this is the bearings. Is it worth repairing? I dont know if its a sealed drum or not. I move the drum by hand and it makes a knocking noise and does not feel steady in motion. There was white spiral chippings after the last wash. Possibly due to friction from the drum? Advice please. I appreciate it.
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