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  3. I have a Beko WDIR7543101 Washer Dryer and have noticed over the last couple of weeks that the drying is less efficient (having to put it on for longer or additional cycles to get dry). Yesterday it stopped heating during the drying cycle altogether (washing stone cold). Today i did a wash cycle and the clothes felt colder than normal afterwards which makes me suspect there might be an issue with the water heating too. Having read some of the other posts and the advice guides on here (thanks, they're very helpful!) i understand that the water heating element is different to the drying element
  4. Remove the pump filter and see if you can see if the pump impeller is turning or not. It sounds like an extremely quiet pump or the pump may not be running. Obviously without any water inside.
  5. Thank you for your quick reply. Water supply confirmed * I've triple checked water supply, it's ok. (I've got the machine pulled out while testing, no kinks very good flow and I've confirmed that the water is turned on. ) * Completely removed the inlet filter for test purposes. Water is definitely reaching inlet valve. "Can you hear the water pump running okay? " I press start and the following happens. (Program 1 Cotton). 1. Hatch is locked. 2. Pump starts humming after 1-2 seconds, runns approximately 8-u10 seconds. 3. Display is showing spinnings arrows. 4
  6. A difficult one that Christine. I would imagine that about 12 minutes from the end of a drying cycle is when the heating elements should stop working and the dryer should continue for the last 12 minutes in a cooldown period. It seems that it is this cooldown. That is sticking. It sounds like a fault on the part that controls the programme timer for the dryer side.
  7. Hi there. Thanks for the updates. I would speculate that maybe the water that leaked out was splashing over the top of this cover and removing it prevented that? When it is filling up with water if you carefully take out the drawer can you see if the water is going nicely into the soap drawer or is some of the jets splaying out at awkward angles that cause it to ingress to places it is not supposed to? To do this I would recommend having a towel ready and pushed up to the bottom of the dispenser and be prepared for a bit of water to maybe splash out. It might be messy but it is important to ob
  8. Hello there. When you put it onto a wash cycle washing machine will normally energise the pump first for several to 30 seconds. Can you hear the water pump running okay? After this it will take in water. If it is not taking in water, and you can hear a humming sound this is usually because there is no water supply. I know you have said that you checked that but make sure it's not a kinked hose when you push the washing machine back in place. If you can place your ear at the back of the washing machine where the water valves are, or press your ear up against where the fill hose connects to
  9. Hi there. This is a common problem. These days many washing machine doors are either designed to be unrepairable and you can only buy a complete door assembly, or they are put together in such a way that it is very difficult to work out how to get them apart and very difficult sometimes to get them apart without causing damage. The main thing to do if you haven't already is identify if the spare parts are available for your specific model. In other words can you definitely buy an inner door, and outer door, door glass, or is the part for your washing machine only shown as a complete door?
  10. The handle from the washing machine broke. In order to replace it I need to disassemble de door. The problem is that the 2 parts of the door don't have any screws. They are hold in place by plastic clips(I am assuming this...). Can someone tell me the procedure to disassemble it? I really don't want to force it and break the clips. The model is: BEKO WKY71033PTLYB3 I added also a picture of the door. Thank you in advance.
  11. Hi, I'm stuck and I'm hoping for some assist: Fault: * Machine doesn't fill, starts program, makes humming sound but does not take any water. - Water feed seams 0K, usually gives error code if it does not get water, good pressure in water feed hose. - Spin program works fine. Mark/Model: Zanussi ZWF14791W, Fault Code Using Procedure from https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Zanussi+Washing+Machine+Fault+Code+Reset/34977 I get the following fault codes: Turning nob clockwise. 0 - Up/off position. 1 - C11 2 - E71
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  13. Another update. I did another wash this morning and no leaking! the only difference was that I took out the little shelf for liquid. This does at least mean that I had no clumps as the clumping is always under the little shelf and so the water jets are unable to wash away properly. but I do end up with the liquid drawer full of water (I can't quite see how this is meant to drain away anyway as there are no holes at the bottom etc?) An intermittent leak!!! how can this be??? Many Thanks Simon
  14. Thanks for the update. I did say it's normally a cosmetic difference (i.e the colours) but I didn't notice any difference in the doors and only Miele could make an identical model with different doors.
  15. Cheers Andy, Response from Miele below. Seems strange that this is not clearly explained on their website, and that they have so many different versions of the same machine at the same price! Thanks
  16. Thank you So I have now taken out and cleaned the filter in the water valve. It did have a load of little bits in (see pic) but I still wouldn't have thought it would make that much difference? I also ran air compressor through the top of housing to make sure no jets where blocked (pic to show it is really pretty clean). I have checked the supply hose into a bucket and I would say it feels high enough pressure to me. I have run a load (no other water being used in house to be sure) and have the leak still (see pic). I notice that it only leaked on filling later on in the
  17. You can't usually buy a solenoid separately. With double or triple water valves, if one of these solenoids has gone you should replace the unit complete. If you can detect that one of the solenoid valves has gone open circuit (and bear in mind they have a very high resistance), and by any chance you can get a solenoid they usually gently prise off but I can't guarantee it. I would be very surprised if any manufacturer supplies any parts whatsoever for a water valve. They will usually be just supplied as a complete unit. Stripping one down (as opposed to taking off the external solenoid) i
  18. Is it an easy job to disassemble the solenoid valves? Might give that a go before waiting on replacements. They looked like sealed units if I remember right. Or what voltage are they? Might gerry rig something to spare solenoids I have.
  19. Thanks. This makes sense now and explains why I have water, but yet no water. I will switch it out and hopefully that makes the difference. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated
  20. Yes you could. Though arguably it's unnecessary because if it isn't taking any water in and then timing out an H2O error the problem is clearly that the washing machine cannot take any watering. It's possible that it is just one valve that has gone. There is usually at least two separate valves or two separate solenoids on the same valve. One puts water into the right-hand side of the soap dispenser draw and another puts water into the left-hand side. It's possible that when water comes in initially it is coming from the valve that is okay but then when it wants to take in water on the main wa
  21. So the H20 error did appear on the rinse cycle. There is really good pressure from hose going into machine. When I open the powder door when I start a cycle there is loads of water filling. Could I manually pour a load of water into the powder door on the fill to see if that stops it? I presume it opens solenoid, fills and there is some form of high water level cut off closing solenoids again? If this doesn't fill quick enough it gives a H20 error? Inlet solenoids are cheap. Maybe I'll switch them out and see.
  22. That's strange, H20 error is a water fault (H20) and usually means it's timed out on fill.
  23. Hotpoint WMEF 742 Fills no problem. Loads of pressure going into back, loads of water filling into washing powder door (so 2 little solenoids on inlet are ok I presume). I put a new drain pump in it last year. I cleared exhaust pipe. After 12 minutes on a 1hr 44 min cycle the H20 error appears and beeps constant. I can hear a pump spinning non stop but it just sits, doesn't fill or doesn't exhaust. If I hit pause, it allows door to open (no water in drum). When I press start again, it fills a little, empties a little then goes back to just a pump spinning and a H20 error. Just p
  24. 11 years old and about 5000 washing cycles. Had to replace carbon brushes and drain pump this year, and now it is in top shape. Used once Dr. Beckmanns service it washing machine cleaner, which seemed to be beneficial.
  25. Thanks for the reply, Andy. I did take the motor out to inspect the brushes and they appeared in good condition, they did not show any sign of uneven wear, just normal usage and there was quite a bit of life left in them. I also pressed my finger against the armature and turned the motor but could not find any significantly raised section, one section may be very slightly raised, but nothing major. For example, to clean the black carbon dust from armature, I pressed a paper towel against it and rotated the motor manually, the raised segment did not catch or tear the paper towel or p
  26. Hello there. It's notable how many people have posted in these forums that they had the same symptoms and replace the door lock with no improvement. The door lock is first suspect when a washing machine lets you select a wash cycle but when you press start nothing happens. However, if it doesn't let you select a wash cycle then it may be something else. The door lock is just designed to stop the washing machine from working if the door is open. So a problem with the door catch mechanism can also cause the same problem because it doesn't activate the door lock properly. Also there is alway
  27. The problem with reducing the water pressure is that it isn't now good enough to flush the detergent down properly. So unless you are willing to pour a kettle of water in at the beginning of each wash to flush it down, which obviously would be a hell of a pain, then it's just solving one problem and causing another. If you don't want to choose the lesser of two evils you may need to replace the whole of the soap dispenser. If you haven't already, carefully remove the filter in the water valve and make sure it is clean. Be careful though they are very brittle and very delicate. Also t
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