Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

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About Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

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    Playing writing and producing music - www.snowdune.co.uk
  1. It is true that products are now made to last a specific amount of time. Built-in obsolescence. Of course no manufacturer can survive creating products that never need replacing but they are generally taking the Mickey now with some washing machines literally designed to last for a specific amount of wash cycles which equates to about two years use if bought and used for a large family. People buying them have absolutely no idea but of course as with most things the more expensive ones are likely to be designed to last longer. Regarding your connection. If the amp tag you used was slightly small then I would be fairly sure it is not 13 amp and could overheat so I would replace it. Unfortunately the term that we always use for these parts was amp tag, which doesn't seem to be used by anyone else so it's difficult to search for them. It seems that different companies call them different things for some reason. The connectors we always used to use look like these electrical connectors - I used to use a special crimping tool but if I didn't have the tool I always manage to successfully fit them using narrow nose pliers to bend over the tags. The back tag needs to crimp onto the plastic and the front tag crimps onto the bare wire. However these tags came in different sizes and I haven't taken my ruler out to try work out which ones these are. Unfortunately they don't seem to rate them in amperage only in sizes but you could measure up the ones on the other side of the element. Alternatively they do the ones with the plastic fitting which clamps down on to the plastic part of the wire and they can work well too.
  2. Thanks for the update John. I'm glad you got it off, sometimes it's just a matter of having confidence that it should come off to keep you trying. The new brushes should come captive in the holders so make sure you release them once you have fitted them to the motor. There is usually a small brass lug that needs prising away. Another tip is to take photos on your phone.
  3. Hello Wendy. A flashing rinse symbol is virtually a universal sign of no cold water available for the rinses. Potentially though it could be a fault on the water valve but check that the cold water supply is actually supplying water to the machine. Make sure the tap hasn't been accidentally turned off. Use this troubleshooting guide for no water going into the machine and then try resetting the machine by pressing the «Start/Pause/Cancel" button for a short time after ensuring that the water supply is OK.
  4. I remember all those machines very well. They were well old when I last remember working on them in the early 90s. It would be great if you found any but hard to imagine any still around. Good luck.
  5. Hello Thingumeebob. Sorry for not replying earlier. Was it this plastic pin that you needed for the suspension? Merloni (Indesit Group) Plastic Expansion Peg - I have to say the prices of some of these spare parts now is ridiculous. I remember when a part like this would be just a few pounds but manufacturers charge high amounts for spares these days which contributes to them getting thrown away because repair costs are too high. However, it would in theory have been easier and less stressful to just buy the part and slot it in. If you've secured it by nut and bolt hopefully the nut is loctited or a lock nut so it can't come loose. The potential problem with a metal replacement is it wearing the plastic on the damper, or even just causing noise but hopefully any issues might take a long time to appear if at all. Regarding the heating element. As an engineer I would have replaced the heater. If you have removed all of the rust hopefully it will make a good contact. If you have used a proper 13 amp connector and fitted it well it might be ok. However, the amp tags used on heating elements usually have a little clip inside that stops the tag coming off with vibration. The old connection was clearly dangerously overheating and for a while too. I hope you cut back the affected wire getting rid of all the brittle baked wire. I would check this connection after several washes and keep checking it every several washes until satisfied it isn't getting hot.
  6. Hello. Motors are usually held in place at 3 points or sometimes 4. They always used to have separate nuts and bolts on each motor arm but these days they often just have one. Once released the motor should hook or pull off. Normally you would swing it away from the bracket or let it drop free and then pull it towards you. It may well be tight as it needs to be.
  7. Those top springs are very strong. I've never known them need replacing. If by any chance they look different you could try swapping them around in case they got them the wrong way round when they did the drum bearings. Suspension used to be stronger on one side because when the drum goes into spin there's a lot of force on the side that the drum spins to. Other than that if the drum is held centrally in place and doesn't twist or drop back when water and laundry is inside then technically there shouldn't be any fault. A very crude workaround could be to drill a hole in the back panel which would stop the noise if it's only just touching the panel but you'd need to make sure there wasn't anything like a hose touching the back panel when it's pushed back in place..
  8. The first video shows that the load is quite out of balance. It looks like there might not be enough laundry in to be able to distribute it evenly around the drum or a large sheet could be tangled. Most washing machines will jump about and thump the sides and back if the load is unbalanced. Therefore the first thing is to make sure that it isn't just doing it when the load isn't balanced properly. If it does this noise every time even with a nice smooth load it is unusual. If there are no top tub springs holding the main drum central then the suspension legs are responsible for holding it central. There shouldn't really be any back and front movement. All movement of the outer drum during spin and wash should be from side to side. Make absolutely sure that the washing machine is level front to back and not slightly leaning backwards. Other than that if the suspension has already been replaced I can't think of anything to suggest. It's possible that they didn't replace all of the suspension damper legs. The drum shouldn't catch the back panel unless the tub is leaning backwards for some reason. Check how close the drum pulley wheel is to the back panel with the washing machine empty. Then put a full load of laundry inside and let it fill up with water. Then see if the drum leans backwards under the pressure and closes the gap are not. If the suspension is okay then the drum should just drop down slightly and should not lean backwards.
  9. I would normally use a plastic cable tie or jubilee clip to fasten the drain hose on. You might also consider using some plumbers tape to warp round the plastic pipe first. Don't over tighten a jubilee clip onto a plastic pipe though.
  10. Check the motor by testing between each pin on the motor plug and the motor casing to see if there is any continuity between them. There shouldn't be of course. Also try unplugging the motor to see if it stops tripping which is a more crude method of trying to track down the cause - Washing Machine Tripping or Fusing Electrics
  11. Thanks for the update. It shouldn't really be possible for one brush to wear down and the other not, and for a brush that would normally take years to wear down to wear down in 6 months. Are you sure the brush isn't still held in place and didn't release properly when you fitted it? There should be a small brass lug that needs bending away once the brush is fitted to release it.
  12. It sounds quite rough in the first video. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the pump or the motor or the drum though. It sounds (at a guess) like something could be stuck inside the pump and constantly hitting the impeller, it also sounds like something is loose with the drum but I can't tell if the drum is spinning or if there's a load in or not. The carbon brushes shouldn't be worn again after such a short time but something could have gone wrong with them or the motor if it's now stopped running altogether. The fault you have is not that it won't start the programme because taking in water is starting the programme, the problem is that the motor isn't running. Unfortunately that can have a lot of different causes - Washing machine motor not running (drum not turning)
  13. Hello there. Is the washing machine doing a normal wash rinse and spin and leaving the laundry clean in the normal time? We need to work out if the washing machine is aborting the wash cycle at some point or whether it is working apparently perfectly okay but just developing an issue when it has finished the cycle. One possible cause of a washing machine being stuck filling and training is siphoning, and other cause is the washing machine thinking it is overheating and going into a flushing cycle. However the latter is something that would happen during the wash cycle. Full details of these issues are on this article here - Filling and emptying at the same time Other than that it is difficult to advise anything to check. The error code you mention is not a normal error code. I've never seen any error code as long as that and they normally have a letter such as E or F preceding them. However, the E1 error that you also quote is not in my book. I have very few error codes for the Beko brand unfortunately.
  14. Hello Ian. You have my sympathies. A stubborn, but never-give-up type of man I don't recommend attempting drum bearing repairs as it's a very big job, often requires special tools or even can't be done due to the way they are designed to only allow replacement of the drum rear half (with bearings already in) or even the whole outer drum complete with drum and bearings. Some PCs do need programming. However, just make sure it isn't anything silly like a kinked fill hose or the water turned off. It's easy to forget the simple explanations. If the washing machine does the spin cycle ok but won't take water in on wash cycles check everything in this article first Washing machine won’t fill with water Another possible explanation is that contacts inside the pressure switch could have fused together when it fused. This is less likely if it tripped an RCD because it should happen so fast it shouldn't generate a big power surge. If the pressure switch has stuck contacts then it will think it has water inside when it hasn't and will start to wash - and put the heater ON! which will damage it! If the pressure switch is to blame it should also prevent the washer going into a spin. Check this out - Faults on pressure system and how pressure system works
  15. Carefully examine all round the inside of the door seal in case there's a small hole somewhere highish up. Other than that it might be difficult to track the cause o f the leak with it being so small and intermittent. Check out my article here for 5 tips on how to find a washing machine leak.