Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

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    Playing writing and producing music - www.snowdune.co.uk
  1. Related: Washing machine door won't open
  2. I've just written a dedicated article on my main site for this now - Laundry comes out of washer dryer hot & steamy
  3. OK let me know how you get on.
  4. The vibration may not be anything to do with the feet but if they look worn I can see why you'd try them first. I can't say if all washing machine feet have the same size shaft and thread but they appear to imply they do. If you could find the "proper" feet for them as a spare part it might be safer. They should last the rest of the life of the machine as the machines don't last that long any more. Otherwise double check that they will fit your machine at the site. They do look OK.
  5. I expect most washing machine feet are cheap and not so great quality these days. You should be able to buy new feet if you can find them. Try 4Washerhelp Alternatively you could try placing specially designed cups underneath them. Try searching for rubber feet for washing machines.
  6. Oh dear. You must have had to really ram it in. Didn't you even worry for a second it might not be a good idea? Presumably the quilt is pushing against the door mechanism so the only thing I would try is pushing hard against the door near the latch as I tried to open it. If it won't open the only way is to unplug the machine from the mains and reach in through the top to try and manipulate it open. If that fails you'd have to break the door interlock off to release it. I had one once where the customer had put a tent or something inside and the same thing happened. I had to break off and replace the door interlock.
  7. I have a very comprehensive article about washing machine banging and jumping on spin - however, if there's nothing wrong with the loading there could be a fault on the suspension dampers. Suspension used to be very bouncy but these days most washing machines use cheap friction dampers. If you bounce the main tub (drum) up and down with the machine unplugged and the lid off the dampers should absorb the motion. Look for one side that might be jammed or way too springy. Look for anything like one of the dampers coming loose from the base.
  8. If it's related to a severe bad connection somewhere it may only occur when the washing machine is drawing most power when it's heating the water so cycles and options that reduce the amount of time it is heating water could change symptoms. It's still only a theoretical explanation though.
  9. Drum bearing faults cause a specific rumbling noise so if when you spin the drum as hard as you can from the front if bearings are gone the drum should rumble. It can often also feel rough as it turns. Top tub springs could break or come off which would cause the the drum to lean back or forward and catch on the casing. That should be obvious with the lid off. Suspension dampers these days are pretty basic and cheap devices. They should be easy to fit on most machines. Look for the tub leaning to one side or twisting. An engineer would take the machine pout and with the lid off observe it spinning with wet laundry inside and try to work out what is causing the noise if he can't see anything obvious.
  10. Hello Steve. Earth leakage faults on modern washing machines can cause some strange and weird faults. Definitely try to get it insulation tested with a 500 v DC insulation test meter. Other than that it is normal for the time remaining to be unreliable. They constantly readjust and jump up and down. The temperature of the water going in, how dirty the laundry is when it starts pumping out and rinsing and how even the load of laundry is all affect the estimated time. I would only worry if the behaviour is extreme and it doesn't finish a wash cycle in a reasonable time and or the laundry isn't getting properly washed and spun. I would expect the display board can only display the time it's told to by the main pcb.
  11. Sorry I don't Jim. I always advise against replacing a PCB. Most of the time people have misdiagnosed it so even if it fits OK the fault often remains, but these days especially the manufacturers are making it much more difficult. If the PCB did not come with instructions for programming or setting up then it's useless selling it to the public. I would argue that whoever sold it should have warned it needed setting up or configuring. If there are no leaflets inside then the information is being held back for their engineers only. It used to be the case that spares companies would not sell programmers and PCBs to the public for these reasons. With some manufacturers these things even need setting up with laptops only supplied to their engineers.
  12. Make sure the wall socket it's plugged into is OK. I had an intermittent fault on my microwave recently where it kept flickering and cutting out which turned out to be a very loose wire inside the wall socket. Try having the machine running and wiggling the plug, socket and cable to see if there's any interruption to power. Other than that it sounds potentially tricky to diagnose.
  13. Hello. Did the washing machine spin before you changed the brushes? In other words are you troubleshooting a fault that you thought was caused by the brushes but replacing them hasn't made any difference or are you troubleshooting a fault whereby after replacing brushes something has gone wrong?
  14. The sudden drop in temperature will lengthen wash times but not by an hour. It could be many things. If the laundry is still coming out clean and spun I'd keep an eye on it but see how things go for now.
  15. If someone carries out a repair and immediately afterwards the washing machine isn't working properly they have to come back and sort it out. If by any chance they can show it's a totally different fault then they might refuse to accept any responsibility. But that would be a very rare and unusual circumstance if a totally separate fault has occurred so quickly. The idea that it's the drum bearings is frankly bizarre. If bearings have gone they must have been severely worn when they fitted the timer. No reputable company would fit such an expensive part without checking the rest of the machine out to make sure it's worth spending the money on. One possible explanation for your fault is a poor connection somewhere which struggles to supply the motor when it's under strain with laundry in.