DIY washing machine repair safety (Part 2)

Washing machine safety issues

• I've turned the washing machine off at the socket or its own on off switch - I can't get a shock now can I?
• What do I need to watch out for after repairing a washing machine?
• What about other safety issues (non electrical)?
• (More FAQ's on right column)

 

I've turned the washing machine off at the socket or its own on off switch - I can't get a shock now can I?

Yes you could, the only sure way is to remove the plug from the socket or if the washing machine is hard wired into a switched socked to remove the fuse. If the wall socket, or the washing machine's plug, was wired up reversed polarity (the live and neutral reversed) and the on off switch has had the neutral side bypassed by a previous engineer, then although the washing machine would go dead, with all lights off, electricity would still be running through all of the neutral wires.

Also, if a wall socket with an on off switch, was wired up reversed polarity, then the switch would not stop electricity flowing out into the washing machine, but would instead stop it flowing back into the socket from the washing machine on the neutral side. This would mean that with the socket switch turned off, the washing machine would not work, and no lights would come on, but electricity would flow into the washing machine up to the on off switch through the neutral wire in the washing machine's cable.

Basically I don't trust switches, so always unplug the machine. If the washing machine is hard-wired into a switched socket and you can't remove the fuse, then clearly you can only use the switch, but test to see if the electricity is no longer present at the machine. Most switches should be double pole switches though, (they cut the circuit for the live and the neutral) so even if they were wired reverse polarity they'd be safe.

Don't trust the washing machine's own on off switch

Although washing machine on off switches are usually double pole (they cut the live AND the neutral) the way some of them are wired (particularly washer dryers for some reason) live electricity still runs through some of the other wires. The washing machine will go dead, and all lights will go off, but many wires could still give a fatal electric shock.

If in doubt, use a neon screwdriver or another device to test any wires before touching. Don't just put such a device to wires, and assume that if it doesn't light up, there can't be any electricity running through. Always, test the wire while you know it's live, then get the power cut and witness the indicator go out. Otherwise a faulty tester or dead battery could falsely lead you to believe no electricity is present.

Shocks from unplugged washing machines:

Washing machines have a capacitor or suppressor. This part is usually the first part electricity runs through in the machine (or maybe fitted near to a motor) It's usually round and silver (but can be plastic) with 2 or 4 wires connected to it. These devices can hold a charge for a while after the washing machine is unplugged.

WARNING: Some new Hotpoint washing machines can shock you even when unplugged!

The latest Hotpoint washing machines can electrocute up to 5 minutes AFTER the washing machine has been unplugged. Other machines could be the same. Do not touch the metal heat sink on the main PCB until the washing machine has been unplugged for over 5 minutes. In fact - you should not need to touch this part at all as it is beyond a DIY repair. The main PCB's are too expensive and complex for most DIY repairs.

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What do I need to watch out for after repairing or installing a washing machine?

Make sure there are no problems with the plumbing.

If the drain hose is connected directly to the u-bend under the sink, make sure that the drain hose is connected correctly, and that there isn't a direct run down from the sink u-bend to the washing machine. This can allow some of the dirty water running down the sink to run down the drain hose into the washing machine. A drain hose that is connected to a sink u-bend should first go up at least 3 or 4 inches high (it may need tying up) before running down to the washing machine.

Once correctly positioned, make sure there are no leaks coming from the drain hose or the u-bend connector when water goes down the sink as well as when the washing machine pumps out water.

If your drain hose is pushed into a stand pipe

• Make sure there are no leaks when the washing machine is pumping out water into it.
• Make sure the waste water pipe hasn't fallen over at an angle (if it isn't properly secured to the wall like it should be) and is standing upright, or water can pour out or you can have water siphoning out of the washing machine.
• Make sure you don't push the drain hose too far down the waste water pipe. This is an extremely common mistake caused presumably by worries that the drain hose may fall out. There should be a plastic hook that the end of the drain hose clips into. This forces the end of the drain hose into a shepherds hook and prevents you pushing the hose too far in. Approximately 6 inches of the drain hose should stick out of this hook, which then just pushes into the stand pipe and shouldn't fall out. If the drain hose is pushed too far down, water can siphon out of the washing machine down the drain ( Washing machine constantly fills with water and goes down the drain ) If the plastic drain hose crook is missing, replace it, or at least push the drain hose about 5 or 6 inches down and tape it in. Don't block the air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe. I always force the end of the drain hose into a hook and tape round and across it to force it to stay in that shape, then drop the end of the hose into the stand pipe.

Check for kinks or leaks in the fill hoses

• If you had to disconnect the fill hoses, make sure there are no leaks. Surprisingly, leaks from the fill hose connections can start up quite a while after the water has been turned back on and no leaks were apparent. So before pushing the washing machine back, check for leaks 10 minutes after you have turned the water back on.
• Don't over tighten the fill hoses. Over tightening them causes the rubber seal between the hose union and the water valve or tap to get tightly squeezed and cut into. Tighten them finger tight and then just nip them up a little bit more.
• A leaking fill hose can often be cured by taking out the rubber seal, cleaning it and replacing it the other way round.
• Checking for kinked hoses procedure
• When the washing machine is back in place. Put it on a whites only wash and pull the soap drawer forward to check that the hot water is going into the washing machine properly.
• Then turn the program round to a rinse program to check that the cold water is coming in properly
• After the washing machine has filled up. Turn it to spin and make sure the water empties out properly.

 

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What about other safety issues (non electrical)?

There are other potential dangers while fixing a washing machine other than electrical.

• Never spin a drum, motor or belt by hand while the washing machine is on spin to see if you can give the motor a kick start
• Don't wear a tie or loose clothing that could get snagged on moving parts
• The motor, belt and drum revolving can cause serious injury if fingers get in the way
• Bending over a washing machine wearing a cardigan or jacket with a metal zip can short out contacts if it catches anything
• There are many very sharp edges on modern washing machines which can produce nasty cuts
• Don't let the drain hose drop to the floor as water will flood out.
• Washing machines easily damage floors. Be very careful when moving a washing machine [ What's best way to pull a washing machine out? ]
• Make sure you don't Introduce new faults after fixing a washing machine

More on next column ...

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