DIY washing machine repairs (part 3)

• Washing machine constantly fills with water and siphons down the drain
• Washing machine won't empty water (stuck full of water)
• I get electric shocks from the washing machine
• The fabric conditioner / rinse aid compartment is always full of water
  • Full list of DIY washing machine help (parts 1 - 8)

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Washing machine won't empty water (stuck full of water)

If your washing machine is stuck full of water the water needs to be drained out and this article gives tips on how to do this. If the entire washing machine has gone dead leaving the machine full of water it may be worth checking that it isn't something as simple as a blown fuse ( Washing machine is dead, wont start ) in which case if you get the washer going again it should pump the water out itself.

If the washing machine appears to be functioning normally but simply won't pump away the water then the possible causes (in the most likely order) are a blockage somewhere, a pump failure, or an electrical fault stopping the pump from running.

Blockages are the more likely explanation, but pumps can fail. If the washing machine will not empty the water out you may also not be able to open the door on some washing machines although these days it's much rarer to have a pneumatic lock on the door due to cost cutting [ if a washing machine has a pneumatic door safety lock a rubber hose is connected to the door interlock from a pressure chamber bottle on the tub - water in the tub forces air up this tube and locks the door, which is released when the water is pumped out and the air pressure drops].

Full and detailed advice about finding your pump filter, draining the washing machine when stuck full of water and looking for blockages can be found here - troubleshooting pump faults on a washing machine

Similar fault: A different fault that could be confused with "not emptying water" is if you don't take the washing out until several hours later and find there is still water inside the drum. If the initial water drained out ok but then water seeped back in over the next several hours you could think you have a problem with the machine not draining the water when in fact it's letting water siphon back in or a faulty valve is causing water to seep back in - see Washing machine fills with water overnight or when switched off

 

Watch out for new plumbing installations - particularly at new houses:

If you have just plumbed a washing machine into a u- bend under the sink, or have just moved house and connected your washing machine to the existing u-bend plumbing under the sink and your washing machine doesn't pump out (but it did before) make sure the connector that you fit the drain hose onto doesn't have a blanked end that needs cutting off, or a plug that needs removing.

When a new plumbing installation is fitted that connects to the u-bend under the sink, or someone disconnects an old washing machine from under the sink, any water poured down the sink will flood into the cupboard unless a washing machine is connected to the connector. Therefore, new washing machine u-bend connectors have a blanking plug, or have no hole in the end to prevent water leaking into the cupboard. Before connecting the drain hose, you either have to cut off the end, or remove the blanking plug.

Related: This new section describes in detail about pump faults and cleaning pump filters - Washing machine water pump faults and repairs

 

 

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I get electric shocks from the washing machine

Obviously this is a very serious fault and should never be ignored. The reason you get shocks from a washing machine is because it is not earthed. Unless the plug is molded on, check the plug to make sure the green and yellow earth wire is connected securely.

If it is, then either the mains cable could have a break in the earth lead and needs replacing, or it may not be earthed inside the washing machine at the other end of the yellow and green lead. The latter of these is very unlikely though and both can be checked with a continuity test meter by checking the continuity between the earth pin on the plug and the metal door hinge or another suitable metal point on the washing machine.

The most common explanation for getting shocks from a washing machine is a faulty earth in the wall socket or a fault in an extension cable. I have even come across machines plugged into extension cables that are using 2 core cable (only a live and neutral) instead of 13 Amp 3 core cable.

Getting electric shocks from a washing machine is obviously very serious but I have known many people ignore them. The shocks are often mild, or just tingles because they are caused by small amounts of electricity leaking or inducing across to the disconnected earth wire and running through the casing. It's a phenomenon I think is related to eddie current, but it's not necessary to understand the scientific reason. The effect is useful to us though because without it we would be unaware the earth is not connected unless conditions later allow a full electric shock, which could be fatal.

As the shocks indicate that the washing machine is not earthed it means that if a component inside the machine's insulation breaks down, or a live wire comes adrift and touches the metal parts inside, then the low voltage current will be replaced by the full mains voltage which can kill. Without a path to earth, the washing machine cannot blow the fuse and instead could just work as normal but be lethal.

Obviously call an engineer if the fault is not found in the plug. Try another socket though first because if it turns out to be the wall socket at fault, then you need an electrician - not a washing machine engineer - and may be charged.

Wall socket testers are available, I carry one myself in my toolbox and have done for many years. Mine is made by a company called Martindale. However, although they can accurately show if there is no earth present they cannot be relied on to prove that a wall socket is adequately earthed. This is because they do not test the quality of the earth connection. If an earth was present but there was only a thin strand of wire available at one point then the device is likely to show an earth is available, but if mains voltage were to run through because of an electrical short this earth would be likely to blow just like a fuse. A true earth connection test is usually made by an electrician with a special meter.

 

 

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The fabric conditioner / rinse aid compartment is always full of water

This is inevitably caused by a blockage. The small fabric conditioner compartment in the soap dispenser drawer has a removable plastic cap. This cap fits on the top of a tube which has a hole running through it where the water should siphon through.

When the time comes for the fabric conditioner to be released, cold water enters the small compartment and just washes the conditioner over the top and down the dispenser to the tub. When the water stops flowing, all that is left is the clear water. This water should siphon up the inside of the cap and down the tube.

This tube often gets blocked with the conditioner and if you remove the dispenser drawer and take off the cap you can give the whole thing a good clean out. If the cap is missing, the siphoning will not occur.

To test the function, hold the soap drawer under the tap and allow the water to fill the fabric compartment to overflowing. When you turn off the tap, the remaining water should slowly siphon out of the hole under the cap.

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