DIY washing machine repairs (part 3)

• Washing machine won't empty water
• I get electric shocks from the washing machine
• The fabric conditioner / rinse aid compartment is always full of water
  • Full list of DIY washing machine help (parts 1 - 8)

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Washing machine won't empty water

The possible problems here are blockages or pump failure. Blockages are the more likely explanation but pumps can fail. If the washing machine will not empty the water out you may also not be able to open the door on some washing machines although these days it's much rarer to have a pneumatic lock on the door due to cost cutting (if a washing machine has a pneumatic door safety lock a rubber hose is connected to the door interlock from the pressure chamber bottle on the tub - water in the tub forces air up this tube and locks the door, which is released when the water is pumped out and the air pressure drops).

Some washing machines have a filter at the front of the machine that can be checked for blockages. Sometimes the filter is hidden behind a removable trim or panel at the base of the front. (Some Hoover & Hotpoint washing machines do not have any customer accessible pump filters - if in doubt it will tell you in the instruction book).

If your washing machine has a water pump filter and a filter drain hose you should be able to drain the water from the washing machine into a bowl without moving the washing machine. Open the pump filter flap and pull the small drain hose forward. Take the bung out and drain into a bowl. It's likely to be painstakingly slow but at least you don't have to try and pull out a heavy washing machine full of washing and water.

If your washing machine doesn't have a pump filter, or it has a pump filter but no draining hose then it's a bit trickier. To drain the washing machine, you will need to remove the drain hose from the drain pipe at the back of the washing machine, and lower it into a bowl or bucket. Many plumbers now plumb the drain hose into the U bend directly under the sink instead of a separate waste pipe at the back of the washer. If yours is connected directly to the u-bend, you can usually unscrew it easily. Remember though, that with the pipe disconnected from the U bend, any water poured down the sink will flood out into the cupboard until the hose is reconnected.

Once you have drained the water, you need to check for blockages in the pump by unscrewing the pump filter ( How do I clean my pump filter - Where is the pump filter? ). If none is found, sometimes a blockage can occur in the plastic connector that the drain hose is connected to at the sink end (if connected this way)

Once you have the drain hose disconnected and lowered into a bowl or bucket the water should siphon out as long as the pipe is low enough. You are likely to get several bowls full of water from the washing machine. If little or no water comes out then it may be blocked by an item of clothing like a sock and it won't be possible to empty the machine this way or it is going to be a long process.

Once the last bit of water has drained out, the washing machine may now spin as the safety system for preventing a spin while water is in the machine will now recognize the water has gone and allow a spin. Keep the pipe low down and in the bowl or bucket and put the washing machine on a spin only program. Note, this last step is not strictly necessary as once drained, the door should open. However, you might prefer to try to spin a few more bowls of water out.

Clearly if you put more water into the machine it is likely to fail again until the fault is rectified but these instructions should at least get the clothes out.

Other possible obstructions could be inside the sump hose leading to the water pump. Many Hotpoint washing machines have a filter inside the sump hose which gets blocked. Finally, the pump itself can be faulty.

Similar fault: A different fault that could be confused with "not emptying water" is if you don't take the washing out until several hours later and find there is still water inside the drum. If the initial water drained out ok but then water seeped back in over the next several hours you could think you have a problem with the machine not draining the water when in fact it's letting water siphon back in or a faulty valve is causing water to seep back in - see Washing machine fills with water overnight or when not in use

 

Watch out for new plumbing installations - particularly at new houses:

If you have just plumbed a washing machine into a u- bend under the sink, or have just moved house and connected your washing machine to the existing u-bend plumbing under the sink and your washing machine doesn't pump out (but it did before) make sure the connector that you fit the drain hose onto doesn't have a blanked end that needs cutting off, or a plug that needs removing.

When a new plumbing installation is fitted that connects to the u-bend under the sink, or someone disconnects an old washing machine from under the sink, any water poured down the sink will flood into the cupboard unless a washing machine is connected to the connector. Therefore, new washing machine u-bend connectors have a blanking plug, or have no hole in the end to prevent water leaking into the cupboard. Before connecting the drain hose, you either have to cut off the end, or remove the blanking plug.

Related: This new section describes in detail about pump faults and cleaning pump filters - Washing machine water pump faults and repairs

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I get electric shocks from the washing machine

Obviously this is a very serious fault and should never be ignored. The reason you get shocks from a washing machine is because it is not earthed. Unless the plug is molded on, check the plug to make sure the green and yellow earth wire is connected securely.

If it is, then either the mains cable could have a break in the earth lead and needs replacing, or it may not be earthed inside the washing machine at the other end of the yellow and green lead. The latter of these is very unlikely though and both can be checked with a continuity test meter by checking the continuity between the earth pin on the plug and the metal door hinge or another suitable metal point on the washing machine.

The most common explanation for getting shocks from a washing machine is a faulty earth in the wall socket or a fault in an extension cable. I have even come across machines plugged into extension cables that are using 2 core cable (only a live and neutral) instead of 13 Amp 3 core cable.

Getting electric shocks from a washing machine is obviously very serious but I have known many people ignore them. The shocks are often mild, or just tingles because they are caused by small amounts of electricity leaking or inducing across to the disconnected earth wire and running through the casing. It's a phenomenon I think is related to eddie current, but it's not necessary to understand the scientific reason. The effect is useful to us though because without it we would be unaware the earth is not connected unless conditions later allow a full electric shock, which could be fatal.

As the shocks indicate that the washing machine is not earthed it means that if a component inside the machine's insulation breaks down, or a live wire comes adrift and touches the metal parts inside, then the low voltage current will be replaced by the full mains voltage which can kill. Without a path to earth, the washing machine cannot blow the fuse and instead could just work as normal but be lethal.

Obviously call an engineer if the fault is not found in the plug. Try another socket though first because if it turns out to be the wall socket at fault, then you need an electrician - not a washing machine engineer - and may be charged.

Wall socket testers are available, I carry one myself in my toolbox and have done for many years. Mine is made by a company called Martindale. However, although they can accurately show if there is no earth present they cannot be relied on to prove that a wall socket is adequately earthed. This is because they do not test the quality of the earth connection. If an earth was present but there was only a thin strand of wire available at one point then the device is likely to show an earth is available, but if mains voltage were to run through because of an electrical short this earth would be likely to blow just like a fuse. A true earth connection test is usually made by an electrician with a special meter.

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The fabric conditioner / rinse aid compartment is always full of water

This is inevitably caused by a blockage. The small fabric conditioner compartment in the soap dispenser drawer has a removable plastic cap. This cap fits on the top of a tube which has a hole running through it where the water should siphon through.

When the time comes for the fabric conditioner to be released, cold water enters the small compartment and just washes the conditioner over the top and down the dispenser to the tub. When the water stops flowing, all that is left is the clear water. This water should siphon up the inside of the cap and down the tube.

This tube often gets blocked with the conditioner and if you remove the dispenser drawer and take off the cap you can give the whole thing a good clean out. If the cap is missing, the siphoning will not occur.

To test the function, hold the soap drawer under the tap and allow the water to fill the fabric compartment to overflowing. When you turn off the tap, the remaining water should slowly siphon out of the hole under the cap.

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